jeepneyjinggoy: Island

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THE scene from more than a decade ago has not changed much, locals and tourists gather by the beachfront to catch the sunset sipping on cocktails and beers.

Sunset scene at a beach club in Seminyak.

With the surfers and backpackers outnumbering the luxury tourists, the beachside shacks ruled the shoreline scene where it was more relaxed, drinks cost less and locals were regulars.

Sunset at Semniyak beach

With Bali turning into one of Southeast Asia’s major destinations, tourists pour in great numbers at any time of the year. Today, the game has been upped and the coastline is prime property. Luxury has taken over the scene that even the shacks have become fancier to attract the tourists. The battle for patronage has gotten stiffer.

Sun worship has gotten rather dear, if you opt to be in one of these most sought after haunts along the Seminyak beach. These spots got me curious because it’s what I’ve been told to check out, so I did. Just like before, I used the beach as the access road to these popular joints—Potato Head, Ku De Ta and W Hotel’s Wet.

Sunset sessions have been upped & gotten dear.

Spaced a distance from each other, it’s easy to locate these bars, just let the sound of the music lead you to them. Coming near each establishment, people are lining up by the entrances to enter.

The vibe of each place is pretty much the same. A house DJ spinning to a mixed crowd of international sun worshippers frolicking in the pool and on the daybeds by it, and on the open-air upper and lower sundecks that offers an unobstructed view of the Indian Ocean where the famed Balinese sun sets.

Potato Head “seem to lead” the pack along coastline. Why it came highly recommended among the day to night to wee hours party crowd was soon revealed to me in a case of “if you build it, they will come.”

Sunset hotspot: Potato Head

The Beach Club’s architectural detailing is impressive. So Bali chic, the modern structure draws the eye to its most prominent detail inspired by Rome’s Colosseum—a towering elliptical facade of mismatch 18th century teak window shutters collected from across the Indonesian archipelago. It wraps the ocean-facing property to include two restaurants facing a wide lawn that leads to the infinity pool.

Inspired by the Colosseum, the eliptical wall embracing the Potato Head property made of 18th century teak window shutters

Packaged with a menu that promises good food prepared by a slew of chefs, creative cocktails masterminded by a mixologist, and priced “accordingly”, it attracts its target young and hip spenders and the curious tourists alike.

Beat master at Potato Head

Ku De Ta, which opened in 2000, is said to have pioneered the “meeting place for the global village” concept in Bali with a blueprint that fused modern and minimalist with Balinese open air concept. The result, “an uninterrupted flow of energy” from the beach to the garden deck through the dining area to the entrance, is dubbed as timeless.

Ku De Ta at dusk

A decade and a half after, the tropical lifestyle destination is still on the list of best places to be making it a Balinese icon. Unchanged is its reputation as a good dining spot, attentive and gracious service, and the constant attractions of big name international performers.

15 years after, Ku De Ta is still the place to party

WET is not a beach club but an amenity of the W Hotel. The huge irregular shaped swimming pool that mimics the Indonesian rice fields and the pool deck is for the exclusive use of the hotel guests. However, the popular and hip brand lures in walk-in patrons who wants to have a sip of a signature cocktail at sunset or have a souvenir shot by the logo on the beachfront (which I’m guilty of). After sundown, the crowd thins out to move to another spot.

Guilty!

If one comment I received held true, it is that geography defines the body type. While the surfing spots along the Canggu coastline gathers the lean, muscled bodies formed by the sport, the leisure-touristy Seminyak seaside pool clubs are the best places to spot the gym toned (and buffed) bodies.

Geography defines body type in Bali.

With kilometers of coastline, Bali is host to a good number of beach clubs, restaurants and bars that puts “with a stunning view of the ocean and sunset” on top of its list and several are raved about.

At moonrise, the scene away from the ocean gets exciting.

Nighttime haunts in Bali are aplenty. The first time I visited, I scoured Bali’s nightscape, which had few bars and dance clubs. Today, it’s the opposite—on both accounts. The number of bars has increased and my need to see them decreased. With age comes a shift in priorities. However, I am not to be a killjoy in the company of good friends way younger than me, so I tagged along.

La Favela, along Jalan Kayu Aya or Oberoi Road, is very popular on this strip among locals and tourists. Muscled doormen guard the entrance making sure everyone who passes is above 18, which makes me believe this is more of a watering hole rather than a restobar.

Seen by the narrow walkway of La Favela

The crowd is thick after dining hours inside this establishment with an al fresco area at the rear past the bar, maybe as thick as the cigarette smoke that can double as a fog machine but in an unhealthy kind of way. If you’re a nicotine junkie, then you’d feel at home here.

La Favela interior- nice decors enveloped in thick cigarette smoke.

I like the interior of this place. It’s a mash up of vintage furniture and accessories that come together in a cohesive way, perhaps just like the music, an unpredictable line up of retro to current that seem to work for everyone (well, mostly) in the club.

My stay in Bali was short but sweet, and I barely scratched the surface of the culinary and bar scene. Well, that’s good enough reason to head back. Join me?

For other travel & lifestyle stories, visithttp://jeepneyjinggoy.blogspot.com/ and http://apples-and-lemons.blogspot.com/

Published in the Sun.Star Davao newspaper on November 19, 2015.

"Where are you off to this time?" I was asked.

"I'm going to Bali!' I said.

"Can you bring me home a Balinese door?" She was quick to ask.
Bubble thought: Sure, I can hand carry that.

Well, who does;t want to own one like this?

Woodcarving detail of the Balinese teak wood door seen above

A double panel door in teak wood has become synonymous to Bali, if you're on the home decorating front, that is. It's what usually pops in mind when the Indonesian island destination's name is mentioned, just as it's the waves to the surfers and sarongs to the beachcombers.

In the home decorating front, the Balinese door in teak wood is synonymous to the island destination's name

How a one dimensional illustration becomes three dimensional design on teak wood.

But beyond the Balinese doors, the island craftsmen offer more.

With the steadily rising influx of local and international visitors again after the unfortunate 2002 Kuta incident, Bali tourism is on the high once more. Along with the ride is, of course, commercialism.

Hop in! Commercialism taking a ride in the Balinese tourism development. (Yes, this ride is for sale)

Space and competition in Kuta and Seminyak is getting tighter for hotels, bars, restaurants and retail shops. The main thoroughfares and side streets are lined with commercial businesses. Side by side, shops selling decors, clothing and accessories are battling out for customer's attention. The pieces come not only from the island but from all over Indonesia, too.

Surf factory outlets along Jalan Ngurah Rai By Pass

Souvenir shops along Jalan Double Six in Kuta/Legian

The stores in Kuta Square

In Kerobokan, there is so much more than the penal institution to see. Stray far from the touristy areas and make your way to this district where roads are filled with shops that sell furniture and ornamentation, pieces that can turn your home to look worthy enough of a magazine feature. All you need is the eye, the taste, and more importantly, the self-control.

Wooden sculptures fro accents.

New & used furniture for sale.

A shop selling old wood repurposed to new furniture & old steel chairs to match.

Knowing what you want before hunting is an advantage or else you'll feel like a kid in a candy store wanting everything you see and loving only a couple of treats from the pile of acquisitions.

Geger Handicraft is a warehouse filled with hand woven vine baskets from Lombok. From a trinket boxes to clothes hampers, food trays to chests, baskets come in all shapes and sizes. (Warning: kid in a candy store moment in here. Know what you need).

Geger Handicraft is a warehouse of handwoven baskets from Lombok

Sold per piece or by sets. Find your own use for these baskets.

Decorative boxes in different forms & sizes.

Didi Artshop has a showroom in Ubud but its factory is in this district. It makes life sized (almost) replicas of animals in driftwood. You'll catch sight of sheep, reindeers, elephants, giraffes along the road. For sure, it's a magnet for a photo opportunity, if you're not buying.

A factory of animals. Buy these at the Ubud showroom, not here.

If you want them big. Driftwood takes the form of animals.

The teddy bear is larger than the elephants.

The rams & the sheep.

How about a pair of giraffe?

If you're on the hunt for floor mats and window screens made of natural materials, there are several along this road. You just have to be a bit OC and do check on the quality of the products.

Vintage shops must be the most interesting feature of the area. Here, you'd most likely be taking a nostalgic trip to the past. Alarm clocks, transistor radios, lamps, and chandeliers can remind you of your past, and are awaiting resurrection.

A junk shop in Kerobokan

Find use for these metal trunks

Reminds me of my Lola's house in the province.

I'm pretty sure the new generation don;t know what these are for.

You can spend an entire day in this store.

Call it junk or vintage items, these are waiting ressurection from a good number of Balinese shops selling these goods

The way to Ubud is a revelation. Hire a private van for a day, the driver will surely know where to take you if your décor hunting. Opting for a tour bus will limit your time.

East to Ubud is Batu Bulan, a stone carving village. Volcanic rocks are masterfully turned into Hindu deities and other folkloric characters from 10 inches to more than 6 feet in height. If you find one you like that is impossible to hand carry, the shops can assist you in shipping it to your address.

Batu Bulan, a store carving village East of Ubud

Carving from stone -- the style is no different from wood carving. (Bicycle for scale).

Detailing a base.

A carver creates a figure of Ganesh from a block of stone.

The finished product.

Ganesh & company.

The showcase. Artisans from Batu Bolong village transform blocks of stone into astonishing figures sized at 20 cms to 2 meters.

Nearing Ubud is a woodcarving village that makes wall decors to the famed Balinese doors. Furniture shops that make stools to a full living rooms set, screen panels included. Shops that sell birdcages come aplenty, too.

Not necessarily for birds. Avian pens go decorative.

Find shops like this on your way to Ubud

Be sure to check out the junk shops where salvaged wooden house posts, beams and others are stacked. Here, the owners breathe new life into old wood. This is where I found an old Chinese bed component that I redesigned to a headboard. You need to be creative.

My find. An Oreintal four-poster bed detail I redesigned, resized & repurposed as a headboard.

Next time you visit Bali and want to go on a home décor shopping adventure, make sure you know what you want and aim for it. Although I am pretty sure you'll be buying more than what you planned for. Maybe a basket and that Balinese door.

*****

For more travel & lifestyle stories, visithttp://jeepneyjinggoy.blogspot.com/ and http://apples-and-lemons.blogspot.com/

Published in the Sun.Star Davao newspaper on October 29, 2015.