Ground Zero. Peace Monument.. Hypocenter Park. Atomic Bomb Museum. One-legged arc. Uramaki Cathedral. St. Peter's Church. Twenty-Six Martyrs Monument. But there's more! Hilltop parks, mountain ranges, shorelines and more than hundred islands to explore.

What draws tourists to Nagasaki? To see Ground Zero? This one tragic event that befell the city seems to be synonymous with its name, and yes, that draws in the crowd, most often for a side trip—a day tour— from Fukuoka. Nagasaki today is far from what its dark past was (which included the persecution of Christians during the Edo period and the eruption of Mt. Unzen, the deadliest volcanic eruption recorded in Japanese history). Fully recovered and thriving, the prefecture lures in the curious and the wanderers. Stay longer than a few hours, a couple of days perhaps, or even longer if you want to immerse yourself in its charm. Whatever you opt for, Nagasaki won’t disappoint. 

The prefecture’s rich and diverse past makes the place a cornucopia of adventures today. It led to creating a unique place where the local culture coexists with Western and Eastern cultures today, be it people, food, architecture or religion. It was the gateway of Europe and Asia to the country in the past, after all. While Japan isolated itself from the world for more than two centuries during the Edo Period, Nagasaki was the only port that permitted foreign trade. This made Nagasaki Prefecture’s role in the country’s international relations vital.

Nagasaki City, clustered around Nagasaki Port, exudes a vibe of polarity. It blends the present with the past, urbanization with nature. These appealing features are evident upon arrival at the train track of the largest city in the prefecture. Hop off the ultra-modern Shinkansen then hop on the retro trams with a history that dates back to 1915 –still running on its original lines and efficient to this day—to your destination around the quaint city. The tram system, one of the oldest in Japan, continues to be an important part of Nagasaki's transportation network that connects all the vital areas of the city, tourist attractions included.

It is true that the most significant sites can be covered in a zip. These must-visit spots, concentrated in a small area, are navigable by foot, kicking it off at the Peace Park, which features donated artwork and the 9.7-meter-high Peace Statue, a symbol of Nagasaki’s wish for peace; the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum, where the narrative of the tragic past are told; onto the Nagasaki Hypocenter Park is the Ground Zero of the city’s atomic bombing; and, finally, the Sanno Shrine, where one of the torii’s pillar remained standing amid the devastation.

While others leave after the route, some would opt to stay in the city until dark, and make their way to the 333-high Mt. Inasa park and observatory via the Nagasaki Ropeway. The summit offers a spectacular view of the city, the mountain ranges and coastline—beautiful on a clear day and spectacular at sundown— one of the best night views in the world. 

Closer to sea level, have a relaxing stroll through the harbor, where Nagasaki’s glorified past transpired. Dejima was the only contact between the West and during its period of isolation in the Edo era. Today the wharf exudes both a calming and exciting vibe with its resort-like vibe. More than a wharf, it’s an open-air museum offering a peek at the former Dutch trading post. A few steps away is the Nagasaki Prefectural Art Museum, renowned for its diverse art collection.

If religious worship sites are your thing, Nagasaki has an array to fill the hours before sunset. At the foot of Mt. Kazagashira is the famous Teramachi-dori (Temple Street), where 14 temples and two shrines line the street, including the 1629-constructed Chinese temple of Sofukuji Temple, which houses 21 cultural assets, including two national treasures. Another temple built by Chinese merchants is the Kofukuji Temple, Japan's first Chinese temple of the Obaku sect. 

Roman Catholics will be in awe of the Nagasaki historic sites: on Nishizaka Hill, the Twenty-Six Martyrs Monument and the Gaudi-esque St. Philip’s Church (Nishizaka Church) is dedicated to St. Paul Miki and his twenty-five Christian companions. Also dedicated to the martyrs is the Oura Cathedral, built by a French missionary in 1864, making it the oldest wooden church of Gothic architecture existing in Japan. Oura Cathedral is a National Treasure and listed as one of the Hidden Christian Sites in the Nagasaki Region inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Equally notable is the Urakami Cathedral (St. Mary’s Cathedral), the 1914 Romanesque-style cathedral of brick construction that featured Angelus bells from France, which was destroyed in the atomic bombing of 1945.

Stray from the usual paths and surprises pop up, like the terrain. Nagasaki’s topography is unique—a harbor surrounded by mountains, where the urban area extends to. Residences on the hillside are gifted with a view of the sea and the mountains. It’s a charm and a challenge as well, well worth discovering and a longer stay in Nagasaki.

Ten minutes to a destination on the mobile map app may not be so in this city. The terrain is often omitted from the equation. It may be an uphill climb via alleys and stairways through a peaceful community of compact residences and even cemeteries, which will make the trip longer (and arduous for unfit souls like mine), but what awaits at the journey’s end is rewarding. The destinations, like the hilltop parks of Kazagashira and Tateyama, will take your breath away, especially in Springtime, when the cherry blossoms are in their full regalia. Beyond the blooms, one could say, “What Mt. Inasa can offer; so does Mt. Kazagashira (and Mt. Nabekanmuri, too)”. From a different vantage point, the panoramic view of Nagasaki is magical and breathtaking from morning ‘til night.

Take notice of a sign that says “art gallery” by Kazagashira Park’s gateway. It’s a small one but big in art wisdom. A Nagasaki islander, the artist’s forte is capturing the essence of the islands in the prefecture. Which leads you to ask, how many are there? Mountainous Nagasaki also has the largest number of islands in Japan. Island hopping, anyone? If you do, make sure to make a stop at Hashima Island, aka “Gunkanjima” (Battleship Island), a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site of Japan's Meiji Industrial Revolution. With hundreds of islands dotting its coastline, it doesn’t come to a surprise that Nagasaki prides itself on having the most variety of fresh seafood in all of Japan. 

And while on the topic of food, before heading off, make sure to have a bite of Nagasaki’s specialty cuisine: the “celebratory dish” of Omura-sushi; the Champon, a noodle soup with thick, chewy noodles, a rich, milky chicken and pork bones broth, and loaded with stir-fried pork, seafood, and vegetables; Castella Cake, a sponge cake introduced by Portuguese merchants; and the Toruko Rice, aka as Turkish Rice, made of a combination of pilaf rice, spaghetti, and a pork cutlet.

Reading all this about Central Nagasaki alone, with much more on the unlisted adventures—outer islands exploration, hiking through the peninsula, the seven major festivals, the nightlife— how much time would you spare on your visit to Nagasaki?

It’s springtime and one of the most awaited phenomena in Japan transpires—the cherry blossoms trumpet their beauty in the most delicate manner. Don’t just take photos of it, join the party! Roll out a mat under the umbrella of pink and white blooms, bite on bento box treats, and raise your beer, or Sake to celebrate nature’s wonder.

The Sakura season is a big thing for the Japanese. It’s the time of the year to observe the quintessential Japanese experience of Hanami (literally translates to “flower viewing” in Japanese and is most commonly associated with cherry blossoms) where friends and family get together for a picnic or party to admire the beauty of the blooms. No matter what the calendar days’ agenda are marked with, there will always be time for Hanami. Why? Because the beauty of Sakura is fleeting with only a few days to bask in its breathtaking charm. Once a cherry tree sprouts its flower buds, it takes seven days for it to reach full bloom and another seven days to flatter us in its full glory before it drops and carpet the grounds with its delicate petals. The end scene is as surreal as the beginning of the flower’s life.

One can’t have enough of these flowers. I know I can’t. Thus, I have been chasing the Sakura since the first spring visit years ago, mostly in the Kanto regions of Honshu, Most recently, in new sites in Kyushu Island.

Fukuoka and Nagasaki are charming bayside cities famous in its own rights: Fukuoka, the “ramen capital” of the nation, is a center of international commerce since ancient times, while Nagasaki has its historic port — the only port in Japan open to foreign trading in the past, sadly, it’s widely known for its nuclear attack. So many stories to tell about these two cities but let’s stick to cherry blossoms. If you find your way to both cities, here are Sakura sites where you can observe Hanami.

While Fukuoka lists several popular spots to view the blooms, I chose three of spots because of its accessibility from Tenjin:

Maizuru Park (Fukuoka Castle Ruins, a national historic site), home to approximately 1,000 cherry trees, is a celebrated cherry blossom destination in the city. The delicate pink and white blooms provide a stark contrast against the Ishigaki, the fortified ancient stone walls of Fukuoka Castle, yet poetically melds natural beauty with history. Climb up the platform where the replica of the Fukuoka Castle stands to catch a stunning view of the Sakura garden with flowers in full bloom. The setting makes for an ideal spot for Hanami during the day— and at night, too, during the Fukuoka Castle Spring Festival when the cherry blossoms are illuminated, transforming the space into a dreamy landscape. With food stalls and music, the festival is liven up.

Nishi Park is nominated as one of Japan's top 100 Sakura spots, and for good reason. The 170,000-square meter park has over 1,300 trees spread across the undulating terrain of the property. The high points of the park doubles the excitement with the offering of panoramic views of downtown Fukuoka, Fukuoka Bay and Shika Island. The young one’s get their treat too at the play area.

Atago Shrine. Minus a private ride, it’s a manageable 10 to 15-minute (from the subway or bus stops) stroll up 68-meter spot in Mt. Atago to reach Fukuoka’s time-honored 72 A.D.-built shrine, but well worth the hike. The oldest shrine in Fukuoka boasts of 2,000 cherry blossoms, and as expected of a mountaintop setting, the shrine opens up to spectacular views over Fukuoka and Hakata Bay.

If time is on your side, visit the other notable spots in the city like Uminonakamichi Seaside Park, Ohori Park, Nokonoshima Island Park, Akizuki Sugi no Baba.

In Nagasaki, I opted to go to a few spots within the city center.

Kazagashira Park came highly recommended by a local. It’s “a few minutes walk” from Shindaiku Machi Station I was told, not knowing that I was up for a challenge as the park that sits atop Mt. Kazeto. The hike on paved pathways through residential areas and a cemetery will be rewarded by a delightful scene that will appease the weary soul and sole.

There may only be about 350 cherry trees within the area, about 152 meters above sea level, but the view of Nagasaki Port, the bay and the city (as breathtaking as what Mt. Inasa on the opposite side of the bay can offer) make everything picture perfect for Hanami, especially at moonrise when the lanterns light up the cherry trees for the Kazagashira Park Cherry Blossom Festival and the cityscape below glows in the blanket of night.

The park is also a famous spot for Hataage (kite flying), 2,500 hydrangeas blooming in early summer and the statue of Sakamoto Ryoma gazing at Nagasaki Bay.

Tateyama Park, with 700 cherry trees, is a perennially popular picnic spot among the locals. Its location on a hilly area straddling Tateyama and Nishiyama makes for a beautiful spot to celebrate Hanami in the city. The cherry trees are strategically planted on terraced hills allowing each level a view overlooking Nagasaki beyond the vision of pink and white blossoms. The view of flowering treetops and beyond is best seen from the observatory. The park playground and multipurpose plaza also attracts sports lovers and children at any time of year.

If time permits, head to Omura Park or Sakura no Sato, both destinations an hour’s travel from downtown Nagasaki.

It took a while but there I was, finally. The closest I got to this city, Japan's second city and the central business hub of west of the nation, was Kyoto, and that was almost good eight years ago. It could have been a quick train ride to the place. Why didn't I? Kyoto was too exciting that I wanted to bask in its beauty until the last minute of the trip. And then, I stepped inside the :kitchen".....

A port and commercial city in Honshu Island that became one of the most visited destinations in Japan today. Welcome to Osaka. What draws in the tourists? Undeniably, food tops the list. It’s not known as the culinary capital of Japan for nothing. From food stalls to Michelin starred restaurants and everything in between, Osaka’s food culture is something to dig into. This gave birth to the expression “kuidaore,” which translates to “spending on food (also applies to fashion) until you go bust,” or “to eat until you drop.” Ironically, the proof that one is in Osaka is not a photo of any of the popular fares—takoyaki, beef, yakitori or ramen—as these are also served throughout Japan. What is it? The shining beacon of the Dotonbori Canal, the Glico Man! 

As often as I go to Japan during the cool seasons, my destinations have always been Tokyo and Kyoto since the first visit in 2009. Osaka has never called out to me. Until now. I wanted to take a peek at what the “tenka no daidokoro” (the nation’s kitchen) has to offer. What else does it have? I want to see the city from above and on the ground, immersing myself in the Kansai culture. More importantly, where should a first timer stay? 

Aside from the cuisine, Osaka also has the nightlife and cherry blossoms, art, architecture, and historical sites, and not to forget the vital facet that makes Osaka truly enticing— its accessibility. From the international airport direct to the city center and on to the neighboring prefectures, the connection can make the most out of the trip from this city: to Nara, for the bowing deers and the world's largest bronze Buddha; Kyoto, for its geishas, bamboo forest, vermilion torii gates, and World Heritage Sites; Kobe City in Hyogo, for the signature marbled beef and onsen towns; Wakayama, home to beautiful beaches; Hiroshima and its savory okonomiyaki and anago, and memorial site; and all the way to capital city. These places are easy to reach, within a short period of time, via one of the busiest train stations in Japan, the Namba Station, host to railway terminals JR, Kintetsu, Nankai, Hanshin, and three Osaka Metro subway lines. 

This direct access is amped a level higher as these stations take you to a most engaging pastime—shopping. Hop off the train and enter the doors of Namba Village, an extensive shopping area consisting of two large scale complexes where Takashimaya Department Store is part of. Steps away are the dreams Osaka’s TikTok universe are made of—jiggly cheesecakes, steaming hot ramen and yakitori, designer vintage boutiques, Don Quijote, cosmetic shops—everything about Osaka’s cuisine, the nightlife and more shopping areas, from the backstreets of Namba to Dotonbori and beyond the Nipponbashi Bridge. 

Now, imagine living above this train station at the center of Osaka’s vibrant district. It’s like having your own garage in the basement with the Shinkansen and the subway cabs as your chauffeured rides, and the initial trip of a first timer transports them from the international airport straight to the hotel’s doorstep. Convenient, strategic and apprehension-free. Picture this hotel as home in Osaka, a luxurious one with five stars stamped by its name, a hotel like Swissotel Nankai Osaka. This was my home base, it can be yours, too. 

This premium deluxe hotel towering above the Namba Station is special beyond the convenience of its location. Swissotel Nankai Osaka champions Japanese sensibilities and its renowned Swiss hospitality. Two worlds sharing a common creed in putting forward exceptional quality, efficiency, punctuality and respect for tradition in hospitality and service. I say, this was evident during my stay, experiencing today’s Japan within its walls. 

Housed in the skyscraper are 546 posh rooms and suites thoughtfully designed for every traveler. It fuses Japanese aesthetics with modern appointments to emit a sense of place in this contemporary time. Japanese-inspired wooden details tastefully adorn the room, including a screen that unveils a panoramic view of the dynamic city as it stirs at dusk and dons dazzling lights past Golden Hour. Impressive? The top level of the 147meter-high structure, one of Osaka’s tallest, offers a more breathtaking vista. On the 36th floor, where the restobar is designed with wrap-around picture windows, I devoured the view of the metropolis for breakfast and sipped it at cocktail hour. With the good food, spirits, privacy and luxury this spot offers, I saw no need to queue at any of the observation decks in the city. See Osaka from above— checked. 

Like the view, dining in this tower is elevated, literally and figuratively, in its six restaurants, with cuisines that can please the most discerning palates. What Osaka can offer on ground, Swissotel can offer at an altitude—Oriental, continental and most especially the authentic local cuisine including Osaka’s popular kushiage. The two Japanese restaurants, Hana-Goyomi and Minami, took me to other prefectures on a plate, specialties that featured locally-sourced, farm fresh ingredients at the peak of its season—marbled beef that’s so tender to the bite, freshly caught seafood tasting sweet on the palate, organic grains and vegetables that are crisp, clean and bright—which the Japanese chefs and sushi masters incorporate in their ever-changing seasonal menus, elevating the Japanese Teppanyaki and Kaiseki dining experience. And the sweet stuff? Japanese confections are never too sweet and the pastry chef lives up to the tradition. Just like the savories, pastries are created by what the current season yields, which keeps the Gourmet Shop fans curious on what the chef will whip up next. Exquisite Japanese food—checked. 

From minding Japanese dining etiquette to shaking off the formality on the same floor, Nambar10 is a uniquely-designed social venue inspired by Den Den Town, Dotonbori and Amerikamura, reflecting the dynamic, vibrant and quirky city of Osaka. The bar took me to a nostalgic trip to the era when arcade games, mirrored balls and disco dance floors were the hottest items. On special events, the rainbow flag waves and drag queens take to the stage to the crowd’s delight. 

I took my sweet time exploring Osaka, just one or two sites a day. From my home base, everything on my list was a train or subway ride away: Nara and its World Heritage Sites, the luxury shopping avenue of Mido-suji in Shinsaibashi and high-end malls of Umeda, Nakanoshima Museum of Art. At night, I chose to explore the areas on foot, peeking at popular and gate-kept eateries, bars and boutiques from the busiest passages to the back alleys of Namba, Dotonburi and Shinsaibashi. Historic sites, local-favorite ramen and takoyaki tourist crowd-free restos, and Japanese designer brand shopping—checked. 

Spent after hours of exploration, this exhausted soul and sole needed a treat. There was no need to step out and head far for a soothing time in an onsen. The hotel’s Japanese bath, a satisfying alternative, did the trick. This, along with the sauna, spa and indoor swimming pool, is on the floor entirely dedicated for health and wellness. It’s an Eden for relaxation. 

Japanese-styled accommodations, Japanese bath, Japanese cuisine. Swissotel Nankai Osaka is a place to experience local lifestyle and hospitality in a modern setup. May I call it a sky-high modern-day ryoka with a touch of Swiss flair? 

Five days is never enough whenever I visit any of the Japanese cities, the same applies on this first visit to Osaka. Seven days is the least number on a usual visit to immerse myself in one place. Admittedly, I will never be a TikTok superstar who can create an impressive summary of numerous spots in just three days. I salute those who can. But this old traveler still prefers to take it slow and breathe in the essence of Kansai with every step. I lived it well on my first visit to Osaka, and true, this “kitchen” is exciting in more ways than the cuisine. A second trip? I will bite at it!