Why Iloilo? The food, for one, Dinagyang, for the Sto. Niño devotee, and the short plane ride on a direct flight from Davao is a big plus. Twice in 2023, I visited the place, long before Iloilo was designated “Creative City of Gastronomy” in the Philippines by UNESCO. Surprising? No. It's a well-deserved recognition. For sure, the new title heightened the city's aroma and umami, making it a more enticing destination.

This Western Visayas province has long been on the foodies’ map. It’s the craving for the authentic Ilonggo fare that pushes gourmands to travel to sate the palate. I am one on the list who chases after the savory batchoy, Pancit Molo. KBL (kadyos, baboy, langka), and Chicken Inasal cooked with recipes passed down thru generations; the sweetest mangoes of Guimaras Island; and the sugary bites of barquillos, Butterscotch squares and cream horns. Ask a local where to get a fix of the real deal local masterpieces, you might be directed to a hole in the wall eatery, the interior of a public market or a fancier joint. Go, it will be worth your while. But watch out for the emerging culinary geniuses as well, for they are whipping up something new or putting a twist to old favorites. Does Batchoy Ice Cream intrigue you? 

However, there is more to love in the City of Love than its cuisine (and the Dinagyang Festival). In Iloilo’s treasure trove are famed and unfamiliar gems found across the province. Each municipality shines with its own unique charm, including beach and inland resorts (like Sol Y Mar, a R&R ecotourism farm site in Tigbauan that highlights harvest to table cuisine); local industries (like the SEAFDEC: Southeast Asian Fisheries and Development Center, which promotes sustainable fisheries development in the region for decades now); and historic landmarks from old sugar mills to watchtowers.

Did you know that Iloilo locals wove fabrics from pineapple, abaca, cotton and silk prior to Spanish arrival? The weaving industry was well set in place as early as the 17th century and the growth of the industry in the mid and late 19th century earned Iloilo the designation as the “textile center” of the Philippines. Today, the hablon weaving industry is very much alive in the town of Miagao.

Sugarcane farming was the same. It was present pre-Spanish era but did not become a booming industry until the arrival of British Vice-consul Nicholas Loney the 1850s. The man was key to turning the province into a sugar producing giant. He assisted in infusing capital to grow sugarcane, imported cuttings and machineries, built shipping vessels for interisland transporting of sugar and opened the Iloilo port to international trade. The Muelle Loney, the Iloilo River Wharf, was named in his honor as the “Father of Philippine Sugar Industry.”

Sugar built mansions and today these ancestral treasures are listed as Iloilo’s Heritage Houses showing the city’s affluent past. The oldest, 1803-built Casa Mariquit aka Don Fernando Lopez Museum, was home to former Philippine Vice-President Fernando Lopez, Sr.; the dreamy estate of Mansion de Lopez, aka Nelly Gardens built in 1928, is a favorite venue for romantic affairs; the Yusay-Consing Mansion, aka Molo Mansion built in 1926, is repurposed as a souvenir shopping stopover; and the 1865-built Avanceña House, aka Camiña Balay nga Bato declared a Important Cultural Treasure by the National Museum, offers heritage tour and cuisine, which includes the famed Chocolate Espeso (Tsokolate de Baterol) and Molo soup. The list is long and each old house has an interesting story to tell. So do the breathtaking centuries old houses of worship. 

From the city center to the countryside, a Visita Iglesia is an enlightening journey spiritually and historically—a double treat, so to speak. The 1874-built Jaro Cathedral, aka The National Shrine of Our Lady of the Candles, the first national shrine in Western Visayas. Among its unique features of Jaro Cathedral is an all-male ensemble of saints placed on the main pillars as opposed to the all-female grouping of the 1888-built Molo Church, aka Saint Anne Parish Church, which is referred to as a feminist church. Both churches are National Historical Landmarks.

In the coastal town of Miagao, 45-minutes from the city, is the Santo Tomás de Villanueva Parish, aka Miagao Church, one of the most impressive Baroque Churches in the country and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The ornately decorated bas-relief of the facade is designed with a unique mix of medieval Spanish, Chinese, Muslim influences. Purposely built on the highest elevation of the town with massive and intensified walls and two bell towers of uneven heights may add to the church’s distinctive features but it also served as a protection from Moro seafaring invaders.

The nearby towns have its historic churches as well: San Joaquin’s 1869-completed parish church, a National Cultural Treasure, displaying a military scene on its pediment; Tigbauan’s 1575-built St. John of Sahagun with a Mexican plateresque facade; and 1774-erected Guimbal Church built with yellow sandstone. 

Further south in the town of San Joaquin is the Garin Farm Pilgrimage Resort drawing in both the faithful and the curious alike with the Pilgrimage Hill, aka the “Stairway to Heaven.” It’s a biblical dioramic journey from creation to ascension, including a 480-step staircase that culminates with a blinding white heaven-like scene at the farm’s highest point. 

Truly, one of Iloilo’s strong suits is its preservation efforts. It is evident across the province and most especially in the business district, the Calle Real, or the J.M. Basa Street. It was the main street of commerce during the Spanish era and the high-end shopping hub during the early American colonial period. The “Escolta of Iloilo” is today’s Calle Real Business District, a Heritage Zone, where the restoration of the historic buildings revitalized commerce and tourism of the area. Javellana Building and E/R Villanueva Building (once the International Hotel) are two of the Neoclassical, art deco and beau arts edifices flaunting its old glory, but with new occupants and business ventures. 

Art also found its residences in Iloilo’s historic edifices. What was once the Iloilo Provincial Jail is now the National Museum of Western Visayas. It’s one of the first American buildings constructed in the country and with its design, cultural and historic value, it was declared an Important Cultural Property in 2016. 

Equally deserving of the spotlight is the UPV Museum of Art and Cultural Heritage (UPV MACH) with seven modest galleries in its complex. The impressive 1935-completed Neoclassical Art Deco building by Jose Arellano was a former municipal hall, a Japanese garrison, then a learning institution’s main building before it was converted to the art gallery it is today. The museum exhibits a comprehensive collection of art and artifacts highlighting the province. 

Tourism-wise, Iloilo’s preservation and restoration accomplishments added to the province’s allure. But the city’s new products to its attractions are as enticing, like the Iloilo River Esplanade. The impressive rehabilitation project transforms a dike road to a 9-kilometer urban esplanade and linear park built on both sides of the river that stretches through several districts. A most popular destination at sunrise and sunset, the eco-friendly space offers pedestrians a scenic tour of the river and city views.

For an immersion in modern art, the Iloilo Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (ILOMOCA) at the Iloilo Business Park Township is a must visit. It’s the first of its kind in the region. Across three floors of exhibition spaces are five galleries including the impressive collection of the museum’s primary patron occupying the entire top floor and a space dedicated to recognized Filipino artists who identify as Ilonggo.

Next stop: Bacolod, and why it should be on your travel list, too.

Mactan Cebu International Airport. Long layovers and delayed flights? It is what it is. But what you do with your time is in your hands. Don’t mope. Have a feast! 

Cebu has a myriad of culinary offerings that will take your mind off the not-so-pleasant-incidents the airlines are causing. Some of it is inside the airport terminal— various local lechon brands and delicacies, coffee shops, and restaurants that offer decent meals. Everything is pricier, that’s a given. 

Here’s my all-time, winning solution. I make my way to the hotel just right across the street- to the Waterfront Airport Hotel. What’s inside? Cafe Uno. It's a more comfortable and quiet space where freshly brewed coffee is good, connection to the internet is free, and a menu that lists fab food choices. And if I come at the right time, there’s a buffet spread for breakfast and merienda, occasionally, lunch and dinner, too, if the hotel’s occupancy is high. Wiser? Indeed. Plus, it’s value for your money. 

If you love Pinoy food like I do, then you’re in luck. The current chef is pushing regional cuisine to the forefront, in fact, this is his advocacy. When it comes to Binisaya cuisine, Chef June Fernandez goes back to his roots and revisits his grandparents’ love for this kind of cooking. Now, as the new executive chef of Waterfront Airport Hotel and Casino Mactan, he aims to elevate the dining experience by highlighting the heartwarming Filipino dishes and adding a modern twist to these classics.

It’s always a brilliant idea to befriend chefs because they can always whip up something special. I will speak from experience having ‘crossed the street’ several times and chose to while my time in between flights from Davao to Boracay, Tokyo and Seoul. 

The chef said the Waterfront Airport Hotel’s menu is in the process of changing. From Chef June’s kitchen came “Baka Mamen,” his version of mami/ramen with chunks of tender beef cooked for hours and poured with rich-tasting soup. This dish instantly gained following upon its release in a pop-up market.

Yet to be introduced on the menu (and I pray it does) are Pinoy favorites that will make anyone drool. The “Keviche” is one. It’s the chef’s take on ceviche and kinilaw, a refreshing dish of fresh fish cubes in thick coconut milk, which gives it a rich, nutty, sweet flavor. Green pepper gives the dish a light kick of spice and the crispy dilis offers a nice contrast of flavor and texture to the dish. 

Chef June makes his own Chorizo Cebu using the family’s heritage recipe. It uses lesser cuts of fat but still retains the flavor expected of the dish. You’ll catch this at the breakfast buffet spread.

If your layover is longer, like a night or two, don’t stray far and request for a room by the poolside. This part of the airport hotel exudes an resort vibe in the island. 

Or how about heading to Waterfront Cebu City, where the hotel houses three of Cebu’s specialty restaurants, Tin Gow (Chinese), La Gondola (Italian) and Mizu (Japanese)? 

At La Gondola, Chef Randy Lagas showcases seasonal dishes that excite the resto’s regulars and perhaps you, too! The brick oven-baked pizza (Carnivora, an all meat pizza) and house-made Pappardelle pasta (Pappardelle Filanti) are in order if it’s your first time. The pizzas and pasta are the bestsellers in this Italian joint. It's delicioso and can be very addicting.

Don’t miss the Carpaccio di polpo con aglio olio e crema di limone (Octopus carpaccio with roasted garlic, extra virgin olive oil & lemon cream). When sliced paper thin, it makes the smokey dish awesome! 

The chef’s Italian Lamb Stew I give top score for its rich flavor and tenderness. Cooked for four hours with aromatics and spices, the chef leaves no trace of gaminess. It’s yum!

The chef’s Italian Lamb Stew I give top score for its rich flavor and tenderness. Cooked for four hours with aromatics and spices, the chef leaves no trace of gaminess. Yum!

Desserts in this place are divine. It’s dusted with sweetness, never overwhelming. Whether it’s the coffee-cocoa concoction of Tiramisu, the light gelatinous fare of panna cotta or the Pistachio Gelato, it’s a truly delightful way to close an Italian meal. Order the three, that’s buono x 3.

Mizu offers a new kind of dining experience and transport you to Japan — the omakase. The chef takes the reins and prepares a special meal with the season’s fresh ingredients.

Sit down and let Chef Ken Imamura surprise you. Here’s a sample. A curated 5-course meal starts with the Tofu Cheese, a truly delectable appetizer. Next was the Shinoda Chakin (shinoda is a dish simmered in a dashi stock flavored with soy sauce, sake, mirin and sugar), chicken wrapped in a tofu sheet with broth, the warmth of which opened up my appetite. Following next, the fresh and almost creamy slice of Sake Sashimi. 

To cleanse the palate, the Cold Noodles Soup to prepare you for the chef’s main course: Ebi Tempura (perfectly cooked prawn) and very tender U.S. Beef Teppanyaki. And to cap the meal, the Green Tea Ice cream. Oishi!

Which dish I loved most? All! It was a meal that took me to a favorite Asian destination, Japan.

Chef Jimmy Low of Tin Gow

Crispy Squid at Tin Gow

Sweet & Sour Pork at Tin Gow

With little time left before I take off, I will have to miss Chef Low’s cooking at Tin Gow. Not. They wrapped up my favorite Sweet & Sour Pork for me to take home to Davao. 

Now, catch your flight home wearing a smile of contentment while rubbing the tummy with glee. It’s always wise to make the best of circumstances that’s beyond anyone’s control. So when you suddenly have time on your hands arriving at the Cebu airport, make it a culinary stopover. 

Here’s a tip: Why not stay longer and stay a night or two. Get comfortable and don’t rush through the delights of your culinary stopover? The rooms at the Waterfront Airport Hotel and Waterfront Cebu City are quite comfortable. I slept snugly.

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The cuisine is what drives many to visit and revisit Bacolod City at any time of the year. Good food can always elicit smiles. On a recent R&R trip in the City of Smiles, I asked locals where they enjoyed each Bacolod specialty most. They took me to old-time restaurants still serving heritage recipes, and the trip brought them memories of childhood, high school life, including the more recent times. 

For three days, we scoured the city for local eats and feasted on locals’ popular and well-loved dishes. Here’s what landed on my must-eat list. 

Cansi at Sharyn’s Cansi House. Now run by the 2nd generation family member, the 38-year old restaurant still serves the same recipe that wowed the locals and visitors. A single order can serve two hungry souls and extra rice will be in order.

Batchoy at 21 Restaurant. From a hole-in-the-wall snack house to a fancier restaurant it is today, the 1984-established eatery has been known for its batchoy. You say batchoy and they say 21. Why 21? It’s the address at the corner of 21st and Lacson Streets. 

Fresh lumpia at Yummy Yummy. It’s old school snacking for the former students of La Salle. What makes this delicacy interesting is the addition of crushed chicharon to the ingredients. It adds another layer of texture and the fatty-salty flavor of the chicharon is a wonderful contrast to the sweetened sauce. 

Chicken Inasal at Chicken House

Address: DOLL (Daniel Otilia Ledesma Lacson) Building, 6th Street, Bacolod, 6100

Sans Rival at Felicia’s

Chocolate Mud Pie at Calea

With my local food guides Joy, Tessa & Lyn