jeepneyjinggoy: Sakura

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The delicate pink and white blooms provide a stark contrast against the Ishigaki, the fortified ancient stone walls of Fukuoka Castle

It’s springtime and one of the most awaited phenomena in Japan transpires—the cherry blossoms trumpet their beauty in the most delicate manner. Don’t just take photos of it, join the party! Roll out a mat under the umbrella of pink and white blooms, bite on bento box treats, and raise your beer, or Sake to celebrate nature’s wonder.

The Sakura season is a big thing for the Japanese. It’s the time of the year to observe the quintessential Japanese experience of Hanami (literally translates to “flower viewing” in Japanese and is most commonly associated with cherry blossoms) where friends and family get together for a picnic or party to admire the beauty of the blooms. No matter what the calendar days’ agenda are marked with, there will always be time for Hanami. Why? Because the beauty of Sakura is fleeting with only a few days to bask in its breathtaking charm. Once a cherry tree sprouts its flower buds, it takes seven days for it to reach full bloom and another seven days to flatter us in its full glory before it drops and carpet the grounds with its delicate petals. The end scene is as surreal as the beginning of the flower’s life.

One can’t have enough of these flowers. I know I can’t. Thus, I have been chasing the Sakura since the first spring visit years ago, mostly in the Kanto regions of Honshu, Most recently, in new sites in Kyushu Island.

Fukuoka and Nagasaki are charming bayside cities famous in its own rights: Fukuoka, the “ramen capital” of the nation, is a center of international commerce since ancient times, while Nagasaki has its historic port — the only port in Japan open to foreign trading in the past, sadly, it’s widely known for its nuclear attack. So many stories to tell about these two cities but let’s stick to cherry blossoms. If you find your way to both cities, here are Sakura sites where you can observe Hanami.

While Fukuoka lists several popular spots to view the blooms, I chose three of spots because of its accessibility from Tenjin:

Maizuru Park (Fukuoka Castle Ruins, a national historic site), home to approximately 1,000 cherry trees, is a celebrated cherry blossom destination in the city. The delicate pink and white blooms provide a stark contrast against the Ishigaki, the fortified ancient stone walls of Fukuoka Castle, yet poetically melds natural beauty with history. Climb up the platform where the replica of the Fukuoka Castle stands to catch a stunning view of the Sakura garden with flowers in full bloom. The setting makes for an ideal spot for Hanami during the day— and at night, too, during the Fukuoka Castle Spring Festival when the cherry blossoms are illuminated, transforming the space into a dreamy landscape. With food stalls and music, the festival is liven up.

A walk through Fukuoka's Maizuru Park's sakura tunnel

A stunning view of the Sakura garden of Maizuru Park

Nishi Park is nominated as one of Japan's top 100 Sakura spots, and for good reason. The 170,000-square meter park has over 1,300 trees spread across the undulating terrain of the property. The high points of the park doubles the excitement with the offering of panoramic views of downtown Fukuoka, Fukuoka Bay and Shika Island. The young one’s get their treat too at the play area.

In Fukuoka, Nishi Park is nominated as one of Japan's top 100 Sakura spots

The park's observation deck

A panoramic view of Hakata Bay from Nishi Park

Atago Shrine. Minus a private ride, it’s a manageable 10 to 15-minute (from the subway or bus stops) stroll up 68-meter spot in Mt. Atago to reach Fukuoka’s time-honored 72 A.D.-built shrine, but well worth the hike. The oldest shrine in Fukuoka boasts of 2,000 cherry blossoms, and as expected of a mountaintop setting, the shrine opens up to spectacular views over Fukuoka and Hakata Bay.

Fukuoka's oldest shrine, Atago Shrine

Atago Shrine toriis

Entry path to the Atago Shrine

If time is on your side, visit the other notable spots in the city like Uminonakamichi Seaside Park, Ohori Park, Nokonoshima Island Park, Akizuki Sugi no Baba.

In Nagasaki, I opted to go to a few spots within the city center.

Kazagashira Park came highly recommended by a local. It’s “a few minutes walk” from Shindaiku Machi Station I was told, not knowing that I was up for a challenge as the park that sits atop Mt. Kazeto. The hike on paved pathways through residential areas and a cemetery will be rewarded by a delightful scene that will appease the weary soul and sole.

Sakura in Kazagashira Park, Nagasaki

There may only be about 350 cherry trees within the area, about 152 meters above sea level, but the view of Nagasaki Port, the bay and the city (as breathtaking as what Mt. Inasa on the opposite side of the bay can offer) make everything picture perfect for Hanami, especially at moonrise when the lanterns light up the cherry trees for the Kazagashira Park Cherry Blossom Festival and the cityscape below glows in the blanket of night.

Kazagashira Park icon, Sakamoto Ryoma

The view of Nagasaki Bay from the observation deck of Kazagashira Park

The park is also a famous spot for Hataage (kite flying), 2,500 hydrangeas blooming in early summer and the statue of Sakamoto Ryoma gazing at Nagasaki Bay.

Tateyama Park, with 700 cherry trees, is a perennially popular picnic spot among the locals. Its location on a hilly area straddling Tateyama and Nishiyama makes for a beautiful spot to celebrate Hanami in the city. The cherry trees are strategically planted on terraced hills allowing each level a view overlooking Nagasaki beyond the vision of pink and white blossoms. The view of flowering treetops and beyond is best seen from the observatory. The park playground and multipurpose plaza also attracts sports lovers and children at any time of year.

Hanami at Tateyama Park, Nagasaki

Found my spot. Takoyaki for my hanami picnic

This view from the park's observation deck

If time permits, head to Omura Park or Sakura no Sato, both destinations an hour’s travel from downtown Nagasaki.

Also published in the Manila Bulletin newspaper.

Japan in Spring is No.1 in Davao Travelers Choice poll

In a recent jeepneyjinggoy.com social media poll, Japan topped the list on the “Top 6 post-pandemic destinations of Davao travelers.” Food, culture and sights are the main reasons for visiting. The time of year to visit? The sweater weather seasons of Spring and Autumn are the preferred occasions. The former, having more votes, because the Cherry Blossoms are too gorgeous to miss, and the latter because who doesn’t want to dive into a sea of orange and gold?

Unfortunately, Spring and Cherry Blossom lovers will miss the season and the blooms again (for the third time since the pandemic struck). To date, Japan has not laid down its welcome mat for the tourists. We will have to wait for the 2023 blooms. I can imagine how exciting that will be.

What’s the favorite Japanese city to be in at Spring time? Tokyo and Osaka are on top of the list because of the accessibility airlines offer from Davao. But whatever the choice is, the season is special. It’s when the Cherry trees take centerstage and wow its audience with its blooms.

Tokyo is currently a personal favorite (no matter the season, for that matter). Though I have visited other prefectures, I have yet to explore it as extensively as the capital city. Tokyo is a vibrant modern city with a pocketful of Old World surprises. Skyscrapers may rise and blazing neon signs multiply but ancient edifices remain. It’s having to enjoy the old and new in a single stop.

Just as Japan keeps its man-made structures well-preserved, nature is afforded as much respect. Tokyo has its share of nature’s gifts. It may not be old by Japanese standards, but the gardens of the city are as charming as any other in the country. During the Sakura season, the locals find every chance to spend time outdoors to appreciate the transient beauty of the flowers. It’s called “Hanami” (flower viewing) and it is regarded as the most important event of the year.

Underneath the towering trees in bloom. Hanami or flower viewing and it is regarded as the most important event of the year

According to the Japan Meteorological Corporation, the Cherry Blossom forecast for Tokyo this 2022 puts first bloom on March 23rd and full bloom on March 30th. For another seven days after peak bloom, the city will gloriously wear a cloak of heavenly blossoms before it showers the pedestrians and leaves a carpet of petals on the ground. That’s how fleeting the Cherry Blossom season is.

Sakura lovers, worry not. You can chase the flowering trees as they bloom across Japan. On the Sakura blooms calendar, the country’s southern prefecture of Kyushu Island is the earliest while the northernmost island of Hokkaido is last. Fukuoka in the south expects its first bloom on March 19 and full bloom on March 29. Sapporo in the North will have its first bloom on April 30 and full bloom on May 4.

Wherever you choose to do your Hanami, it will be memorable. You can either do a walking Hanami through tunnels of flowering trees or spread a mat under a canopy of blooms.

If you choose Tokyo, one of the most popular Hanami spots is Ueno Park. It lures in the crowd (the party crowd!). It can be a challenge to find a spot under hundreds of flowering Sakura trees. Believe it or not, people mark their spots with blue tarps (picnic mats) early in the day. As the evening comes and the 1000 lamps are lit the landscape is breathtaking.

Ueno Park is one of the most popular Sakura & hanami spots in Tokyo

A Hanami experience along the Meguro River is also recommended. The river banks of the 8-kilometer river through several chic quarters makes for a pleasant stroll. At the Nakameguro district, paper lanterns illuminate the river and the blooms is a sight to see. Grab a beer from a pop-up stall and enjoy the view.

Meguro River displays a breathtaking scene during sakura season. The scene at Nakameguro district

For a fee and a limited time in the area, the Shinjuku Gyoen is one spot to visit. It’s one of Tokyo’s largest and most popular parks. Home to numerous cherry trees of diverse varieties, the park is a must-see place in the center of the energetic Tokyo district.

Home to numerous cherry trees of diverse varieties, Shinjuku Gyoen is a must-see place in the center of the energetic Tokyo district

Here’s a trivia on Hanami. 1.It’s a centuries-old practice in Japan that started in the Nara Period (710-794) with the appreciation of the Plum (ume) blossoms; 2. The attraction of Sakura came in the Heian Period (794-1185) then Hanami became synonymous to Sakura; 3. The Hanami chronicle: originally limited to the elite of the Imperial Court, spreading to the Samurais next, then to the commoners in the Edo period. The Shogun encouraged the Hanami (and feasting with food and sake) by planting Sakura trees; 4. The Japanese believed that kami dwells in the sakura; 5. Originally, the Sakura was used to forecast the year’s harvest and announce the rice-planting season.

A love affair with the season’s spectacle is imminent. It can be love at first sight and something one won’t get enough of. Perhaps because it occurs once a year and swiftly at that.

The fleeting beauty of the sakura. The life of a bloom is about 14 days from kaika (opening of the bud) to sayonara (farewell)

Also published in the SunStar Davao newspaper.

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...to step in Sakura heaven at Shinjuku Gyoen

COVID-19 has disrupted everything, travel plans included. I know I’m not alone on those who swiped their plastic fantastic (aka credit card) to snag a good deal on place tickets to their favorite destinations. As soon as the lockdown commenced, airports closed, flights were cancelled and the 2020 dream journeys went pffft. It’s better to be safe than sorry.

Even with the travel bans were lifted and planes took to the sky, to travel is a hassle—big time! Travelers need documents. Lots of it. Travel clearance from the barangay and police, and proof that you are COVID-19 free at leas 48 hours before the departure date. You know how much a swab test cost? P 6,500. And you need two, heading off and coming home.

If you’re flying in from another country, add the cost of hotel accommodations for three nights while waiting for the result. You can’t board on your connecting domestic flight until then. If your flight gets cancelled, who shoulders the cost of the swab test? Your guess is as good as mine. So it's best if we wait this pandemic through. Stay home, wash hands frequently, use mask and pray for the vaccine ASAP.

In the meantime, why not sift through your travel photos and daydream? Draft a bigger and more exciting plan for a first post-pandemic destination. Fly Business Class, upgrade to a luxury hotel, book a table at a Michelin-starred restaurant because…why not? After staying put for months (and turning into bakers, gardeners, interior designers or barter experts), you deserve this treat.

...to explore more of Taipei and beyond

Taipei and Tokyo for the Sakura was on my list. It's not a first time there but there are places that you can't get enough of and these two are on it. Luckily, I haven't purchased tickets for those places. However, I have booked tickets to Bangkok in May, an annual scheduled trip, and Boracay in August. Both were cancelled. Not so lucky with T’s and B’s trips so far, but there’s another “B” destination in October— Bohol. I pray something positive will turn out before the departure date.

...to be under Sakura blooms in Tokyo

You see, I am not alone in this. In social media, I see posts of “if not for the pandemic, I would have been here by now” captioned to a photo. Well, what do you know, it seems that Japan is leading, if it were a popularity race. Maybe because it’s the site of the 2020 Olympics, or the ramen.

...to enjoy the sun, surf and sand in Boracay

Months back, I did a story on where would Davaoeños go after the pandemic. Siargao topped the list followed by Coron and Bohol. I wouldn’t mind going to some exotic destination and emerge in salt water for hours of cleansing ritual. It seems that seaside areas are COVID-19 free. Am I right on this? If so, lucky are those who live by the beach. Fresh, healing air all the way!

...to sip cocktails while enjoying the cityscape from a rooftop bar Bangkok

So until it is safe to travel, let’s keep on wishing, planning. Ticking off places from the bucket list are put on hold at the moment, but knowing how generous the Universe is, we will be riding planes and finding ourselves in our dream destinations soon enough. Meanwhile, let’s do our share in flattening the curve.

...to bury my feet in the white sands of Panglao in Bohol

Also published in the SunStar Davao newspaper.

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By this time, the cherry blossoms may have reached its peak bloom in Tokyo. If so, then it’s the perfect viewing time! The flowers will stay for another week before it turns the planes and pavements into a dreamy carpet of pink and white.

The magic of the sakura is fleeting. This is why each spring both the locals and tourists celebrate the season with hanami (flower viewing), flock under the blooms and be embraced by its beauty.

Each city has its own best places to view the cherry blossoms. I was lucky to have seen a few, chasing the flowers across prefectures. Soon, I will add more to my list.

Here are a few sakura spots I recommend.

In Tokyo.

Shinjuku Gyoen. Stand at the center of the green expanse with hundreds of cherry blossom trees behind you for a picture perfect shot. It's almost like you’re photoshopped in it.

Hanami in Shinjuku Gyoen

The vast garden features over a thousand cherry trees of different varieties, which bloom in different stages. So wherever you are in the 58.3-hectare area, you can find your quiet space under the blooms for a picnic—even if the place gets crowded. Or you can opt to take a stroll under the petals and move from the themed garden to the next.

Cherry blossoms in Shinjuku Gyoen

Shinjuku Gyoen is open from 9:00AM until 4:30PM. Accessible via the Shinjukugyoenmae Station or Sendagaya Station. Entrance fee is 200 yen.

Ueno Park. If you want to go where the party is during the season, Ueno Park is the place for you. Here, the cherry blossoms usually bloom 1 to 3 days ahead of the blossoms in other spots of the city.

Cherry blossoms at Ueno Park

The public park has 8,800 trees of different varieties with more than a thousand of which line the path from the National Museum and around the Shinobazu Pond.

Lanterns adorn the trees to highlight the blooms at sundown and offer illumination should visitors want to take the picnic under the blooms into the night—if you can find space. The park is said to be the most popular city park during the season, ergo more crowded. People lay tarps, blankets or boxes to reserve spots.

Hanami in Ueno Park

With musical performances, some dressed up in costumes, pop-up stores offering a variety of food and drinks, the atmosphere in Ueno Park is quite festive (read: noisier) compared to the rest of the hanami spots in the city.

The park is a short walk from the Ueno Station. No entrance fees.

Meguro River. More than 800 cherry trees fringe half of the 7.82 kilometer stretch of the Meguro River. At full bloom the sight is breathtaking!

Cherry blossoms in Nakameguro

Nakameguro is a good spot to catch the blooms especially during the Nakameguro Sakura Festival when the trees are lit up with lanterns at nightfall.

Strolling hanami along Nakameguro

Picnics are impossible along the sidewalk but if there’s a will, there’s a way. Grab a glass of sake or two from the pop-up stores along the road and channel a cocktail party with friends by the river and do a standing hanami. Or just take a walk and breathe in the beauty.

In Machida.

Ondagawa River. Along a two-kilometer stretch of the Ondagawa River are 400 cherry trees. When it’s in full bloom the spot is enchanting.

Sakura at Ondagawa River

Ondagawa River is perfect for strolling hanami, since the area has limited space to spread picnic mats. But the stroll is magical as you get to walk under pink clouds.

River scene in spring

Machida City is a 35-minute train ride from Shinjuku. Transfer to the JR line to Yokohama, get off at the first stop (Naruse Station) and walk 10 minutes to Ondagawa River.

In Odawara.

Odawara Castle. It’s a double treat—the historic castle and the cherry blossoms in full bloom on springtime are great attractions. There are 320 Yoshino cherry trees spread across the castle grounds with the best hanami spot at the base of the castle. The blooms by the bridge and the moat areas are picture perfect spots as well.