jeepneyjinggoy: Kyoto

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Nishi Hongani's Amidado (Hall of Amida Buddha)

After a quick visit to the Koshoji, which I mistook as the Nishi Honganji since both temples have the same moat in the address, I went next door to the right destination.

It was Day 5, my last day in Kyoto, and I was trying to add a few more UNESCO World Heritage site inscribed temples to my list. It was time to tick off Nishi Honganji from the list.

Shinran Shonin founded the Jodo Buddhist path during the Kamakura period. It became one of the largest and most influential Buddhism schools in Japan centuries later.

In central Kyoto, there are two Hoganji temples serving as the headquarters of the two factions of the Hongwanji denomination of Jodo Shinshu, and are designated by its location. Nishi Honganji is at the west (Nishi translates West) and Higashi (or East) Honganji.

Nishi Honganji, which was built in 1591, is the older of the two temples. Higashi Honganji was built 11 years after.

The Nishi Honganji precinct is large, occupying almost the entire block in its address. Within the compound are buildings that are listed as Japan’s National Treasures.

What’s to see in the compound? Let’s start at the point of entry.

The Karamon: Amidado Gate

The four-pillared gate with karahafu gables is a designated National Treasure.

Said to be once part of the former Suhimi Momoyama Castle, the Karamon bears the characteristics from the 16th century Japanese architecture.

It is also called by another name—the “All day gate”, because one can spend an entire day going through the intricate decorative details of the gate.

The Goeido, or the Founder’s Hall.

Another National Treasure, the large Goeido building (measuring 62 meters by 48 meters and 29 meters high) was rebuilt in 1636. This is where Hongwanji’s major observances are conducted.

Enshrined at the central altar is the wooden image of the Jodo Shinshu teaching founder, Shinran Shonin. Along the sides of the founder’s image are portraits of the succeeding Head Priests known as Monshu.

The corridor connecting the Amidado & Goeido

The Amidado, or the Hall of Amida Buddha.

The1760-built main worship hall is a National Treasure.

A wooden image of Amida Buddha is enshrined In the central altar, and alongside it are the portraits of six of the Seven Pure Land Masters from India, China, Japan. Portraits of Honen, Shinran’s direct teacher, and Prince Shotoku, one of the first patrons of Japanese Buddhism, are found in the side alcoves.

The Buddhist Scripture Repository.

The repository was designated as an Important Cultural Asset in 2014. Within the 1678-built scripture vault is an entire collection of the Daizokyo Tenkai Edition of Buddhist texts.

Tenkai was the Tendai sect monk,who compiled the texts for over a period of twelve years commencing in 1635.

For about a hundred kilos of silver, Hongwanji acquired the collection in 1648 from the Tokugawa government. This was during the tenure of Ryonyo, Hongwanji's 13th Head Priest.

The Drum Tower.

The multi-storied structure at the northeastern corner of the precinct was recognized as an Important Cultural Asset in 2014.

The drum was used to signify the time of day during the Edo period.

Hiunkaku Pavilion.

The three-storey pavilion in the southeastern corner of the grounds is said to be a surviving architectural masterpiece of the Edo period.

It holds the tearooms of Hideyoshi (regarded as Japan's second "great unifier") and artworks that may have been painted by Hideyoshi himself.

The Great Ginkgo Tree.

The tree is said to be more than 400 years old and has been designated as a Natural Monument by Kyoto city.

It is known by two other names, the “upside-down ginkgo”, because the branches appear like roots reaching up to the heavens, and “water-spraying ginkgo”, because legend has it that the tree sprayed water in an attempt to save the temple halls from catching fire.

The temple’s wooden plugs.

On the floor that bridges the two halls are the most interesting wooden plugs. It does not only cover knot holes and cracks but makes a most interesting detail on the planks. The plugs come in various shapes—flowers, animals, Japanese articles like the fan or a hammer, which are created by the carpenters themselves.

Well, I went over my allotted time in this temple. It was that interesting.

My temple tour came to an end, on this trip at least. I will visit the tother attractions I missed. I will return soon.

The bell tower

Also published in the SunStar Davao newspaper.

For lifestyle stories, visit www.dduriandaily.com (www.ofapplesandlemons.com)

Email me at jinggoysalvador@yahoo.com

Breathtaking. The Goei-do hall built in 1912

Day 5: I was up early with the intention of maximizing my last day in Kyoto.

I got a good night’s rest in New Ginkaku Inn but if I had my way, I’d sleep to give my aching feet a day’s rest. I must have walked a million steps in the past four days.

Luckily, my hotel, which was in a convenient location a few steps from the Kyoto Station with a bus terminal that can take passengers to any point in the city and back, was also surrounded with points of interest. The Kyoto Tower, Higashi Honganji, Nishi Honganji and the Costume Museum were in the vicinity.

I purposely saved the last day for the exploration of the neighborhood. This way, I can freshen up at the hotel after the tour and walk to the station to head back to Tokyo. With that as the plan, I listed the farthest attraction first and worked myself back to the hotel.

Nishi Honganji was listed as the first order of the day. After a 900-meter hike, I reached a temple at the corner of the Shoji Dori and Horikawa Dori and entered the main gate. I was expecting a bigger temple though, and for a very popular temple, there was not a soul in the compound.

Apparently, it wasn’t the Nishi Honganji but the Koshiji Temple. I, among other visitors, can easily mistake one with the other, if not think it’s one and the same, because both share the same moat that runs along the walls of the temples. Koshiji is the first temple one will encounter coming from the direction of Kyoto Station, and the Nishi-Honganji Temple comes after.

Sanmon Gate at Koshoji Temple on Horikawa, Kyoto

Koshiji Temple: The Goei-do hall (left) was built in 1912 and is 28m in height, on the right is the Amida-do

The neighbors though are related, as both are Jodo-Shinshu sect temples and have shukubos (temple lodging and a study room for its followers).

History relates that a split transpired in the Bukkoji Temple (now located in the Gion District). When control over Honganji was taken over by Rennjo (aka the “Restorer”), one of his followers in Bukkoji Temple, Kyogo, founded Koshoji.

The chozuya

Detail of chozuya

Again, the Koshoji beside Nishi Honganji temple should not be mistaken with another temple located in Uji bearing the same name.

The structures in Koshoji are quite “young”. The large hall, Goei-do Hall, and the smaller hall, Amida-do, date from the early 20th century. The kyozo or the repository for sutras and chronicles of the temple history, however, was constructed earlier, in 1848, and makes it the oldest building in the complex.

The Goei-do hall

Amida-do hall

The covered passage linking the two halls

A ceremonial bell

The roof of the kyozo

Koshiji was not on my list but it was certainly a treat to chance upon it. But I don’t believe in coincidences, there is a reason why I ended up there. Perhaps, to breathe in the serenity and seclusion of a temple as it was in the past? Yes, it may be that.

The next door temple won't be the same. Just like the other popular temples in Kyoto, Nishi-Honganji will be packed and bustling for sure.

Also published in the SunStar Davao newspaper.

For lifestyle stories, visit www.dduriandaily.com (www.ofapplesandlemons.com)

Email me at jinggoysalvador@yahoo.com

In search of geishas in Gion

It was the end of the Day 4 visit in Kyoto. The blue of the sky was diving into its deeper hue and the horizon was dressed in vermilion.

Officially I was in the Gion upon stepping on the grounds of Yasaki-jinja (formerly called the Gion Shrine) coming from the Higashiyama ward. I couldn't let a tour of the temple pass so I made a quick round before making my way to the famous street in the district.

While the Yasaki-jinja or Gion shrine is the most famous in the area developed in the Middle Ages, there are the smaller shrines and temples like the Meyami Jizo dedicated to Jizo, who is a “legendary super-hero and faith healer”, Yasui Kompira-gu Shrine, which features a “power stone”; Kennin-ji Temple, the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto; and the Ebisu-jinja Shrine, which is dedicated to Ebisu, the god of good fortune and prosperity.

Hanamikoji, the main hanamachi street in Gion

There’s also the 1610-founded Minamiza Kabuki Theater, one of the seven officially licensed Kabuki theaters built in the early Edo period. The current building was built in 1929 and is a Registered Tangible Cultural Property; and the 1873-founded Gion Kobu Kaburenjo theater, which hosts a Geisha performance called the Miyako Odori every April.

Daytime could have been a good time to visit Gion and see its attractions, but I made it to the place very late in the day. Suffice to say, I missed out on what the ward has to boast of.

But to walk the “streets of Edo” was the original plan and I made it happen at the most famous street and the main hanamichi in the district—the Hanamikoji (Hanami-koji translates to “blossom viewing lane," and "hanamichi" is the Japanese term for "a neighborhood where courtesans and geisha lived and worked").

More than a kilometer long, the Hanamikoji Street runs between Sanjo Avenue and Kennin-ji Temple

I was in the area for another kind of viewing. I know I’m one of the tourists (with fingers crossed) along the street wishing to get a glimpse of the “woman of art” and nightfall was a good time for the plan. Evenings yield a high chance of spotting a geisha scurrying to an appointment. That would be quite a sight.

Hanamikoji is a well-preserved strolling lane in Gion flanked with traditional teahouses called “ochaya”, restaurants and specialty shops.

Gion sidestreet

Fresh picks for the evening's menu in a Gion restaurant

The narrower side streets revealed a few more dining places, a sake shop and a chef choosing ingredients from a delivery truck from a restaurant’s backdoor, a street sign illustrating the “don’ts”, which included do not touch the geisha you see on the street. I even “trespassed” an old style Japanese house (called “machiya”). Its open gate displayed a charming landscaped path and apparently the structure at the end of it is a private residence.

A "machiya" in Gion

Sake shop along the walking street

Specialty shops

Luck was on my side. I spotted two geisha. I wasn’t quick enough to draw my camera so I captured only their backs as they hurried back to their residence.

Geisha spotted.

I have a confession. It wasn’t the first time I caught sight of a geisha. The first one was during daytime at some reception of a gallery. No, I wasn’t invited. I was walking by the gate when I saw her.

But the Gion sighting was different. It had a more genuine old world aura to it.

If you’re planning to visit Hanamikoji, take notice of the structure with a red wall as you enter the street from Shijo Dori. It’s a 300–year old teahouse called Ichiriki Chaya, one of the exclusive and high-end establishments in the district offering geisha entertainment to the most influential people who get invited.

The Ichiriki ochaya, an institution in Gion (red wall establishment at the corner of Hanamikoji Street and Shijo Avenue). It's the oldest & most prestigious ochaya.

Does “The Tale of the 47 Ronin” ring a bell? The Ichiriki teahouse played a major part in the legendary samurai vendetta in the 18th century.

That’s another entry off the bucket list.

Do's & Dont's when in Hanamikoji

For lifestyle stories, visit www.dduriandaily.com (www.ofapplesandlemons.com)

Email me at jinggoysalvador@yahoo.com

A walk across the shrine prayer tablets

It was late in the afternoon and the sun was almost ready to set in the west. From a quick tour of the Higashiyama ward, I entered Gion district, the last stop for the day.

I was eager to finally roam the city’s fame district. It has been on the bucket list for quite a while. Before reaching it, I got sidetracked by a shrine along the way.

The Shinto shrine of Yasaka-jinja was not on my list. I’m lucky to have chanced upon it because it’s one of the most important shrines in Kyoto.

Nishi-romon gate of the Yasaka jinja Shrine

Guardian at the gate

The shrine’s history dates back to 656, the year believed it was founded, 150 years before the Heian era. It honors the deities Susanoo-no-mikoto, Kushiinadahime-no-mikoto, and Yahashira-no-mikogami. As the capital grew, so did Japan’s adoration to the shrine. Today, there are 3,000 satellite shrines across the country with the Kyoto shrine as its headquarters.

It was once called the Gion Shrine, but during the Meiji restoration when shrines and Buddhist temples were separated its name was changed to Yasaka-jinja. The locals, though. The locals though may still refer to the shrine as “Gion San” or “Yasaka san.”

Yasaka shrine is the host to one of Japan’s most famous festivals, the Gion Matsuri. The annual festival held in July is celebrated for an entire month with parades highlighting the event on July 17th and 24th.

The shrine's main hall. It combines the honden (inner sanctuary) & haiden (offering hall) in one building

Praying figures in front of the main hall

An epidemic that hit the city in 869 brought about the famed festival. From the Gion Shrine, the mikoshi (divine palanquin or portable shrine) was paraded through the streets to ward off the plague. It became an annual festival and became famous.

New Year is also a busy time at Yasaka-jinja. People come by the thousands for the traditional Japanese New Year rituals and celebrations.

The shrine may not be as large as the other renowned temples in Kyoto but it has its attractive features as well. Take for example the architecture of the Main Hall, a designated Important Cultural Property, it combines the haiden (offering hall) and honden (inner sanctuary) in one building. It’s a rare structure designed in the shinden-zukuri Yoshiki style (called the Gion-zukiri style), which was used for aristocratic residences during the 9th-12th centuries.

It was “buden” decorated with lanterns on all its sides that caught my attention. The buden is the building/stage where the sacred dance (kagura) and music are offered to the kami during ceremonies. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to catch it at its most attractive—at night when all the lanterns are lit up.

The "buden". This stage is where the sacred dance (kagura) and music are offered to the kami during ceremonies

A closer look at the stage lanterns. Each bears the name of the Gion Matsuri sponsor. Yasaki jinja is the host of Gion Matsuri, one of Japan's famous festivals

The quick tour also showed me a couple of sub-shrines: the Okuni Shrine, dedicated to Okinishu, who is regarded as the “God of Marriage” (his statue with the hare of Inaba stands at the entrance of the shrine); and the Utsukushi-gozen Shrine, aka the “beauty shrine”, dedicated to the three Munakata goddesses— Ichikishima-hime-no-kami, Tagiri-hime-no-kami and Tagitsu-hime-no-kami. Women of all ages come to visit and use the water from a small rock basin. Legend has it that washing the hands and face with the “Biyosui”, the skin and heart will be beautified.

The statues of Okunishu & the White Hare of Inaba at the entrance of the Okuni Shrine, a sub-shrine of Yasaka jinja. Okunishu is regarded as the "God of Marriage"

A small shrine for beauty. Young ladies in kimono at the mystical shrine, the Utsukushi-gozen Shrine

Yasaka-jinja also gets busy in April as the crowds pass through the temple on their way to catch another thing of beauty at the Maruyama Park—the cherry blossoms. The park is one of the most popular spots for hanami (cherry blossom viewing).

The sun was kissing the western horizon when I entered Gion’s Hanamikoji Street. I crossed my fingers that I would get to spot a geisha or two.

Also published in the SunStar Davao newspaper.

For lifestyle stories, visit www.dduriandaily.com

Email me at jinggoysalvador@yahoo.com