jeepneyjinggoy: Czech Republic

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CATCH sight of a yellow Star of David and you know you're in the Jewish quarter of Prague.

The Star of David, the giveaway sign you're in a Jewish place

Also referred to as Josefov, the town quarter was once the Jewish walled ghetto where the Jews believed to have settled as early as the 10th century.

Towards the end of the 16th century, the ghetto was most prosperous when a wealthy Jewish mayor became the Minister of Finance. The quarter was renamed "Josefstadt" (Joseph's City) in 1850, after the Holy Roman Emperor Joseph II extended religious freedom to the Jews and other non-Catholic Christians in 1781.

The Old New Synagogue & the Jewish Town Hall

As part of an initiative to remodel Prague, most of the quarter was demolished between 1893 and 1913. Left standing were six synagogues, the old cemetery, and the Old Jewish Town Hall, which are all now part of the Jewish Museum in Prague. Josefov today completely surrounded by the Old Town. The small, over-built area holds no trace of the former ghetto that was said to hold an 18,000 population.

Left elevation view of the the Ceremonial Hall

The tour around the Jewish Quarters can be quick, but if you're into delving into its history via a guided tour, it might take longer. Here are the points of interests that I came across while walking on my own.

Take your pick on the menu of Tour of the Jewish Town.

Old New Synagogue or the Staronova synagoga. This 13th-century Gothic synagogue is Europe's oldest active synagogue that follows orthodox custom of separating the men from the women during prayer services. Originally, it was called the New Synagogue or the Great Synagogue. With new ones cropping up in the 16th century, it became known at the Old-New Synagogue.

The framework of the Old New synagogue's roof & the gable date from the Middle Ages

Completed in 1270, it is the oldest surviving medieval synagogue of twin-nave design, and one of Prague's first gothic buildings. The roof's framework and the gable date from the Middle Ages.

The eastern facade of the Old New Synagogue. Note a ladder to attic

The 18th century Zidovska radnice, or the Jewish Town Hall, located at the corner of Maiselova and Cervena Ulice, and adjacent to the Old New Synagogue. The 1586 town hall was originally built in Renaissance style and acquired the Rococo façade in the 18th century. Prominent feature of the structure are the two clocks-the tower clock displays Roman numerals and the lower clock, Hebrew numerals.

The Jewish Town Hall with the 2 clock feature- upper clock has Roman numerals & the lower with Hebrew

The 16th-century Vysoka synagoga, or the High Synagogue, is situated behind the Jewish town hall, a Renaissance building designed as a preaching place for councilors of the Jewish town hall. It was razed by the Great Fire in 1689, and reconstructed.

The Maisel Synagogue or the Maiselova synagoga stands as a museum today but was once a 16th-century synagogue was also destroyed by fire and rebuilt in baroque style. Hitler intended to use this structure as the "Museum of the Extinct Race."

The Old Jewish Cemetery is the oldest surviving Jewish cemetery in Europe, that's said to have been founded in the 15th century by King Ottokar II of Bohemia. The oldest grave in the cemetery belongs to the Prague rabbi and poet Avigdor Kara. Other notable personalities buried in this site are Yehuda ben Bezalel aka Maharal Rabbi Löw, Kli Yakar Shlomo Ephraim of Luntchitz, Mordechai Maisel, among others.

Old Jewish Cemetery

Although there are about 12,000 tombstones visible, the number of people interred is uncertain because there are layers of tombs (Jewish tradition states that no grave should be destroyed and tombstone removed, thus the layering), which could number as much as 100,000.

The Obradni sin or the Jewish Ceremonial Hall is basically a new edifice that was built in the early 20th century (1911-1912) in Neo Romanesque style. It was intended for the use of the Jewish Burial Society. The former ceremonial hall and mortuary is now an exhibition space presenting Jewish history.

The 20th-century building of the Jewish Ceremonial Hall. The former ceremonial hall and mortuary is now an exhibition space presenting Jewish history

Replacing the Old Synagogue in its site after it was demolished in 1867 is the Spanish Synagogue or the Spanelska synagoga. It was built in the style of Moorish Revival architecture in the 19th century and underwent a restoration in the late 1990s. An impressive feature of the building is the elaborate interior. Intricate Islamic style polychrome and gilded patterns fill out the interior walls of the synagogue.

Maisel Synangogue, a 16th-century synagogue, is now a museum. It was Hitler's intended Museum of the Extinct Race

Before it became a museum and concert hall today, the synagogue became a repository for Jewish property taken by the Germans during World War II.

Except for its name. "Spanish synagogue," and Moorish architectural influence, the synagogue was never used by a Spanish congregation.

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Published in the Sun.Star Davao newspaper on March 27, 2015.

BEER is cheaper than water, so drink the precious beer. Lunch is the most important meal of the day and Czechs eat dumplings a lot. Eat, drink and be merry in Prague!

Beer is cheaper than water in Prague.

A meal starts with the "disclaimer soup" (okay, I made up that name). One of the recommended "typical soups", drstkova, is said to "taste better if you don't know what it is made of," the dining guide said. (I sense you're "Googling" now, which is good because it makes this story interactive. Since you're at it, find out what these other soups are: cesnecka, cesneckova polevka, zelnacka, kulajda.)

Pork and sausage take the limelight on the Czech plate. Menu boards all around the city will read "vepro-knedlo-zelo" or the "svickova" as the specials during the lunch hour rush. With the meat and sauerkraut served with creamy sauce and dumplings (aka "siopao" bun to you and me), and lots of it, the Bohemian population is happy and content, more so, after their dessert of studl (apple strudel), livanecky (small thick pancakes) or the medovnik (honey cake).

This is where my situation becomes difficult-I am in a no-meat diet. In the meat-loving country, vegetarians may have a problem. In most of the restaurants, there might be smazeny syr (fried cheese) or bramboraky (potato cakes), but both may be enhanced with meat as well. A specialty restaurant will be my best bet.

I'm lost. Not too much offering for non-meat eaters in this land.

Maitrea recommended a vegetarian restaurant next to the Old Town Square, which was a short walk from the Emblem Hotel where I stayed. It's quite a popular joint, maybe because it stands out as different in the sea of meat-serving diners.

Maitrea, a vegetarian restaurant, in Týnská ulička 6 next to the Old Town Square

The vegetarian restaurant is on the ground floor and basement of the building of the House of Personal Development MAITREA in Maitreain Týnská ulicka 6 in the old town of Prague. The place exudes a very yogic vibe-the interior is dominated by calming natural tones of wood and beige, understated hue of Sanskrit symbols strategically printed on the beams, modern lighting fixtures, the overall design has fluid lines.

Cozy & warm interior of Maitrea.

Sanskrit symbols discreetly printed on beams emit a yogic vibe

Form the menu, which included the vegetarian version of the Czech meat specialty combos, I picked the baked vegetable lasagna. I forgot that this dish is usually baked in a huge pan, portions cut from it and served in portions. Let's just say, I didn't enjoy the reheated dish that came from a frozen whole. I got my non-meat fare, if that's any consolation at all.

The Pasta section of the non-vegetraian menu. THey also offer the vegetarian version of the Czech specialty dishes.

My non-meat meal of Vegetarian Baked Lasagna, which I will not miss.

The adventurous side of me just had to stray from my diet and try the Czech specialty, and I did. A Filipina married to a local and runs a Filipino store pointed me to a pub that serves the "true blue svickova"-meat served with creamy sauce and buns.

Chanced upon this Pinoy store in the Mala Strana. The charming owners, a Filipina & her Czech husband gave me dining tips.

I was directed further down the road to a restaurant by the tram stop for an authentic Czech meal.

The interior of the "restaurant by the tram stop" . Sorry I didn't get the name.

Just like a local, I had a local brew with my meal, which was a good chaser for the few bites I had. I don't think I'm going to miss the svickova.

Breaking my no-meat diet to “immerse in the local culture”, I tried the svickova—meat served with creamy sauce and buns. I can say “been there, done that” and “will not miss it”.

There's one more item that I did try out of curiosity. Almost around town, I saw people holding a cylindrical cake dusted with sugar. It's called the trdelnik and passed off as "an old Czech specialty", which the locals didn't know until a few years ago.

The cukrarna’s lures in tourists (maybe local as well) with its sweet aroma.

I got myself one of the trdelniks, passed off as “an old Czech specialty”, which the locals didn’t know until a few years ago.

The alluring scent led me to a cukrarna (sweet shop) and got myself one. I took one bite and let's just say I'm not going to miss it either.

Oh, I got to try a sausage from a food stall in Wenceslas Square. It had a long line, which made me curious. I got myself one and took one bite to sample it.

The weekend pop-up stores at the Wencelas Square.

People were lining up for this. I had to try it & tried I did.

I will confess to not being a foodie, my palate not of a connoisseur, and diet restricting. My short visit to Prague involved more sightseeing than food tripping. I broke my diet to try what's the local specialty, my way of taking a dip into the Bohemian culture.