Ground Zero. Peace Monument.. Hypocenter Park. Atomic Bomb Museum. One-legged arc. Uramaki Cathedral. St. Peter's Church. Twenty-Six Martyrs Monument. But there's more! Hilltop parks, mountain ranges, shorelines and more than hundred islands to explore.

What draws tourists to Nagasaki? To see Ground Zero? This one tragic event that befell the city seems to be synonymous with its name, and yes, that draws in the crowd, most often for a side trip—a day tour— from Fukuoka. Nagasaki today is far from what its dark past was (which included the persecution of Christians during the Edo period and the eruption of Mt. Unzen, the deadliest volcanic eruption recorded in Japanese history). Fully recovered and thriving, the prefecture lures in the curious and the wanderers. Stay longer than a few hours, a couple of days perhaps, or even longer if you want to immerse yourself in its charm. Whatever you opt for, Nagasaki won’t disappoint. 

The prefecture’s rich and diverse past makes the place a cornucopia of adventures today. It led to creating a unique place where the local culture coexists with Western and Eastern cultures today, be it people, food, architecture or religion. It was the gateway of Europe and Asia to the country in the past, after all. While Japan isolated itself from the world for more than two centuries during the Edo Period, Nagasaki was the only port that permitted foreign trade. This made Nagasaki Prefecture’s role in the country’s international relations vital.

Nagasaki City, clustered around Nagasaki Port, exudes a vibe of polarity. It blends the present with the past, urbanization with nature. These appealing features are evident upon arrival at the train track of the largest city in the prefecture. Hop off the ultra-modern Shinkansen then hop on the retro trams with a history that dates back to 1915 –still running on its original lines and efficient to this day—to your destination around the quaint city. The tram system, one of the oldest in Japan, continues to be an important part of Nagasaki's transportation network that connects all the vital areas of the city, tourist attractions included.

It is true that the most significant sites can be covered in a zip. These must-visit spots, concentrated in a small area, are navigable by foot, kicking it off at the Peace Park, which features donated artwork and the 9.7-meter-high Peace Statue, a symbol of Nagasaki’s wish for peace; the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum, where the narrative of the tragic past are told; onto the Nagasaki Hypocenter Park is the Ground Zero of the city’s atomic bombing; and, finally, the Sanno Shrine, where one of the torii’s pillar remained standing amid the devastation.

While others leave after the route, some would opt to stay in the city until dark, and make their way to the 333-high Mt. Inasa park and observatory via the Nagasaki Ropeway. The summit offers a spectacular view of the city, the mountain ranges and coastline—beautiful on a clear day and spectacular at sundown— one of the best night views in the world. 

Closer to sea level, have a relaxing stroll through the harbor, where Nagasaki’s glorified past transpired. Dejima was the only contact between the West and during its period of isolation in the Edo era. Today the wharf exudes both a calming and exciting vibe with its resort-like vibe. More than a wharf, it’s an open-air museum offering a peek at the former Dutch trading post. A few steps away is the Nagasaki Prefectural Art Museum, renowned for its diverse art collection.

If religious worship sites are your thing, Nagasaki has an array to fill the hours before sunset. At the foot of Mt. Kazagashira is the famous Teramachi-dori (Temple Street), where 14 temples and two shrines line the street, including the 1629-constructed Chinese temple of Sofukuji Temple, which houses 21 cultural assets, including two national treasures. Another temple built by Chinese merchants is the Kofukuji Temple, Japan's first Chinese temple of the Obaku sect. 

Roman Catholics will be in awe of the Nagasaki historic sites: on Nishizaka Hill, the Twenty-Six Martyrs Monument and the Gaudi-esque St. Philip’s Church (Nishizaka Church) is dedicated to St. Paul Miki and his twenty-five Christian companions. Also dedicated to the martyrs is the Oura Cathedral, built by a French missionary in 1864, making it the oldest wooden church of Gothic architecture existing in Japan. Oura Cathedral is a National Treasure and listed as one of the Hidden Christian Sites in the Nagasaki Region inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Equally notable is the Urakami Cathedral (St. Mary’s Cathedral), the 1914 Romanesque-style cathedral of brick construction that featured Angelus bells from France, which was destroyed in the atomic bombing of 1945.

Stray from the usual paths and surprises pop up, like the terrain. Nagasaki’s topography is unique—a harbor surrounded by mountains, where the urban area extends to. Residences on the hillside are gifted with a view of the sea and the mountains. It’s a charm and a challenge as well, well worth discovering and a longer stay in Nagasaki.

Ten minutes to a destination on the mobile map app may not be so in this city. The terrain is often omitted from the equation. It may be an uphill climb via alleys and stairways through a peaceful community of compact residences and even cemeteries, which will make the trip longer (and arduous for unfit souls like mine), but what awaits at the journey’s end is rewarding. The destinations, like the hilltop parks of Kazagashira and Tateyama, will take your breath away, especially in Springtime, when the cherry blossoms are in their full regalia. Beyond the blooms, one could say, “What Mt. Inasa can offer; so does Mt. Kazagashira (and Mt. Nabekanmuri, too)”. From a different vantage point, the panoramic view of Nagasaki is magical and breathtaking from morning ‘til night.

Take notice of a sign that says “art gallery” by Kazagashira Park’s gateway. It’s a small one but big in art wisdom. A Nagasaki islander, the artist’s forte is capturing the essence of the islands in the prefecture. Which leads you to ask, how many are there? Mountainous Nagasaki also has the largest number of islands in Japan. Island hopping, anyone? If you do, make sure to make a stop at Hashima Island, aka “Gunkanjima” (Battleship Island), a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site of Japan's Meiji Industrial Revolution. With hundreds of islands dotting its coastline, it doesn’t come to a surprise that Nagasaki prides itself on having the most variety of fresh seafood in all of Japan. 

And while on the topic of food, before heading off, make sure to have a bite of Nagasaki’s specialty cuisine: the “celebratory dish” of Omura-sushi; the Champon, a noodle soup with thick, chewy noodles, a rich, milky chicken and pork bones broth, and loaded with stir-fried pork, seafood, and vegetables; Castella Cake, a sponge cake introduced by Portuguese merchants; and the Toruko Rice, aka as Turkish Rice, made of a combination of pilaf rice, spaghetti, and a pork cutlet.

Reading all this about Central Nagasaki alone, with much more on the unlisted adventures—outer islands exploration, hiking through the peninsula, the seven major festivals, the nightlife— how much time would you spare on your visit to Nagasaki?

It’s springtime and one of the most awaited phenomena in Japan transpires—the cherry blossoms trumpet their beauty in the most delicate manner. Don’t just take photos of it, join the party! Roll out a mat under the umbrella of pink and white blooms, bite on bento box treats, and raise your beer, or Sake to celebrate nature’s wonder.

The Sakura season is a big thing for the Japanese. It’s the time of the year to observe the quintessential Japanese experience of Hanami (literally translates to “flower viewing” in Japanese and is most commonly associated with cherry blossoms) where friends and family get together for a picnic or party to admire the beauty of the blooms. No matter what the calendar days’ agenda are marked with, there will always be time for Hanami. Why? Because the beauty of Sakura is fleeting with only a few days to bask in its breathtaking charm. Once a cherry tree sprouts its flower buds, it takes seven days for it to reach full bloom and another seven days to flatter us in its full glory before it drops and carpet the grounds with its delicate petals. The end scene is as surreal as the beginning of the flower’s life.

One can’t have enough of these flowers. I know I can’t. Thus, I have been chasing the Sakura since the first spring visit years ago, mostly in the Kanto regions of Honshu, Most recently, in new sites in Kyushu Island.

Fukuoka and Nagasaki are charming bayside cities famous in its own rights: Fukuoka, the “ramen capital” of the nation, is a center of international commerce since ancient times, while Nagasaki has its historic port — the only port in Japan open to foreign trading in the past, sadly, it’s widely known for its nuclear attack. So many stories to tell about these two cities but let’s stick to cherry blossoms. If you find your way to both cities, here are Sakura sites where you can observe Hanami.

While Fukuoka lists several popular spots to view the blooms, I chose three of spots because of its accessibility from Tenjin:

Maizuru Park (Fukuoka Castle Ruins, a national historic site), home to approximately 1,000 cherry trees, is a celebrated cherry blossom destination in the city. The delicate pink and white blooms provide a stark contrast against the Ishigaki, the fortified ancient stone walls of Fukuoka Castle, yet poetically melds natural beauty with history. Climb up the platform where the replica of the Fukuoka Castle stands to catch a stunning view of the Sakura garden with flowers in full bloom. The setting makes for an ideal spot for Hanami during the day— and at night, too, during the Fukuoka Castle Spring Festival when the cherry blossoms are illuminated, transforming the space into a dreamy landscape. With food stalls and music, the festival is liven up.

Nishi Park is nominated as one of Japan's top 100 Sakura spots, and for good reason. The 170,000-square meter park has over 1,300 trees spread across the undulating terrain of the property. The high points of the park doubles the excitement with the offering of panoramic views of downtown Fukuoka, Fukuoka Bay and Shika Island. The young one’s get their treat too at the play area.

Atago Shrine. Minus a private ride, it’s a manageable 10 to 15-minute (from the subway or bus stops) stroll up 68-meter spot in Mt. Atago to reach Fukuoka’s time-honored 72 A.D.-built shrine, but well worth the hike. The oldest shrine in Fukuoka boasts of 2,000 cherry blossoms, and as expected of a mountaintop setting, the shrine opens up to spectacular views over Fukuoka and Hakata Bay.

If time is on your side, visit the other notable spots in the city like Uminonakamichi Seaside Park, Ohori Park, Nokonoshima Island Park, Akizuki Sugi no Baba.

In Nagasaki, I opted to go to a few spots within the city center.

Kazagashira Park came highly recommended by a local. It’s “a few minutes walk” from Shindaiku Machi Station I was told, not knowing that I was up for a challenge as the park that sits atop Mt. Kazeto. The hike on paved pathways through residential areas and a cemetery will be rewarded by a delightful scene that will appease the weary soul and sole.

There may only be about 350 cherry trees within the area, about 152 meters above sea level, but the view of Nagasaki Port, the bay and the city (as breathtaking as what Mt. Inasa on the opposite side of the bay can offer) make everything picture perfect for Hanami, especially at moonrise when the lanterns light up the cherry trees for the Kazagashira Park Cherry Blossom Festival and the cityscape below glows in the blanket of night.

The park is also a famous spot for Hataage (kite flying), 2,500 hydrangeas blooming in early summer and the statue of Sakamoto Ryoma gazing at Nagasaki Bay.

Tateyama Park, with 700 cherry trees, is a perennially popular picnic spot among the locals. Its location on a hilly area straddling Tateyama and Nishiyama makes for a beautiful spot to celebrate Hanami in the city. The cherry trees are strategically planted on terraced hills allowing each level a view overlooking Nagasaki beyond the vision of pink and white blossoms. The view of flowering treetops and beyond is best seen from the observatory. The park playground and multipurpose plaza also attracts sports lovers and children at any time of year.

If time permits, head to Omura Park or Sakura no Sato, both destinations an hour’s travel from downtown Nagasaki.

Going to Taipei? is Beitou in your itinerary? If it is, stay longer in the district than a quick day trip. A night or perhaps two. There's more to the place to explore than the hot springs it's recognized for.

Taipei. Search it once and the algorithm of the city’s best via the eyes of its creators will roll. Is Beitou in it? Perhaps it is, but chances are it’s for a day trip because of its easy accessibility from the city via MRT and bus service. But let me share why you should stay longer than a few hours.

Beitou is a charming district north of the bustling city. It’s a delightful destination at any time of year. Spring brings in the cherry blossoms, Summer dresses the valleys in its verdant hue, the mountains call in the hikers to tread its paths, the rivers become race tracks for dragon boats and the wetlands become a stage for birds, and come Autumn it turns the scenery into fields of gold, orange and red. But its popularity peaks when temperatures drop, when the warming and healing qualities of thermal springs and mineral baths are most sought after. The last is what Beitou is best known for.

It was during the Japanese Occupation when the hot springs were discovered and a public bathhouse was built, the largest of its kind in East Asia. With this attraction, tourism and business flourished, even the unique Taiwanese cuisine came about, it was said. 

Walking the narrow streets of inner Beitou is such a treat.The scene is relaxed, unhurried, devoid of the crowd, unlike many of Taipei’s popular areas. Quaint family-owned shops stand alongside new businesses. Streets will lead you to parks, like Beitou Fuxing Park, where a hot spring foot-soaking pool awaits to relieve tired soles—at no cost—egging you to explore farther and visit the birthplace of Taipei’s first “onsen” in the Hokoto Stream (now Beitou Stream). Today, the once Hokutō Public Bathhouse is the Beitou Hot Spring Museum whispering stories of the past along its halls and dipping pools. Beside it is the Beitou Library rising with pride with its impressive eco-friendly architectural features that earned its accolade as Taiwan’s first certified Green Building. A little farther is the breathtaking Beitou Thermal Valley blanketed by sulfuric steam all year round.

Exploring new paths for some time, the aroma and flavor of food will be the sweet, pacifying music to the growling gut. There is no shortage of restaurants and neighborhood eateries in the area, a few may even surprise you with the distinguishing red marks bearing a star, the Michelin Man licking his lips, or a recommendation. Peng Lai is acknowledged by Michelin for its good cooking. It would be when pork ribs are marinated for 20 hours before deep-frying to crispy-on-the-outside-tender-on-the-inside goodness. That’s just one among the many delectable dishes on the menu. You will crave for a second or even a third bout in this place. For that reason, among others, you will need a home base in Beitou. Let me point you to Aloft Beitou hotel.

Hop on a bus at the corner or take a quick walk to any of the two MRT stations, Aloft Beitou’s location makes it easy to tour the district and beyond it—after a recharging to full bar in the hotel’s unique urban-chic hotel retreat. Aloft room decor is sleek and vibrant, and fitted out with thoughtful amenities, plus, it captures the impressive views of the Beitou District and the mountain range beyond from its picture windows. It’s where you can plot your next destination in the neighborhood from.

Before heading out, power up with the hip hotel’s tasty delights. The sumptuous breakfast at Nook will delight you with authentic local dishes alongside the international fare. But if you’re I a rush, grab a gourmet treat and a cappuccino from the self-service grab-and-go pantry and make it in time for the scheduled bus or train to the day’s destinations.

Hike trails, discover hot springs and sulfur deposits, have a selfie with Qixing, Taiwan’s tallest dormant volcano, and a few things you can do to be one with nature, these you can do with a visit to the Yangmingshan National Park, which is accessible from your home base via a quick drive.

Towards day’s end, make your way down South to Shilin Market, just when the Night Market is stirring to wakefulness. You get first dibs on the popular bites minus the long queues, especially at the Michelin Bib Gourmand stamped Chung Chia Sheng Jian Bao, a long-standing stall that sells pan-fried buns with pork or cabbage fillings. The buns have crispy bottoms and fluffy tops. Just around the corner is another Bib Gourmand restaurant, the Good Friend Cold Noodles, serving an elevated version of simple noodle dishes.

Exhausted? A day well spent deserves a cocktail. Wind down and have a drink at Aloft’s W XYZ(SM) Bar and bob your head to the beat of the music, and perhaps meet new friends who can share travel tips of their own.

But before heading up to your room to recharge for the night, take a stroll around the residential area beside the hotel. The neighborhood is peaceful at night, a few home-based businesses may still be open to welcome guests —a couple of restaurants, a therapist— or grab a Japanese brand ice cream at the convenience store. It’s such a treat. 

Did I take a dip in any of the hot springs? As much as I’m a big fan of “onsens,” I have to forgo a healing soak on this visit. It’s summer in Taipei, hot and humid. However, expect me to be back in this area come cold season. Beitou is beautiful.