When in Japan: The roaring & the calm, the waterways of Nikko National Park

The hours traveled on the road to the destination flew by unnoticed. The trip from Isesaki in the Gunma Prefecture to Nikko City in the Tochigi Prefecture may have taken hours, but it was a feast for the eyes. The drive was as scenic as it was exciting, especially through the Irohazaka Winding Road.

Midway through the destination, before reaching the famed 48 winding roads, were breathtaking waterways worth the stopover—three, in fact, all in the Nikko National Park expanse. 

It was 20,000 years ago when Mount Nantai in the Tochigi Prefecture erupted and blocked the river to form Lake Chuzenji.

The expansive lake is set before rolling hills and mountain ranges that reach to the blue skies in the background. The calm pond is embraced with lush vegetation along its banks, all of which cast a reflection on the glassy, still water fed by the Yukawa River. To say that the lake is picture-perfect is an understatement.

In autumn, Lake Chuzenji flashed the vibrant colors of fall—fiery red and brilliant gold, made more vibrant against patches of green and brown. Indeed, Lake Chuzenji is famous for its autumn foliage.

The rest of the seasons are just as breathtaking, I was told. Lake Chuzenji in spring is a painting of candy-colored cherry blossoms. It’s a go-to spot to escape the summer heat, hike trails, or birdwatch. In winter, there is a Snow and Ice Festival.

The lake was discovered by a priest named Shodo in 782 after successfully scaling Mt. Nantai, which was deemed sacred and didn’t allow women, horses, and cows to pass until 1872.

During the mid-Meiji and early-Showa periods, the lakeside became the vacation address for many European embassies. The former Italian villa has been restored and opened to visitors, while the British Embassy still owns and uses the home Sir Ernest Satow built.

While in the area, do check out the 790-constructed Futara Shrine and the Chuzenji Temple.

No, the waterway is not bubbling from heat despite its name—Yudaki, which translates to "boiling water falls." Yudaki flows from Yunoko Lake, which goes through several waterways before flowing into Chuzenjiko Lake.

Yudaki Falls is a 70-meter-high waterfall with a length of 110 meters that flows down a steep rock face 25 meters wide. Capturing the flowing water in a photograph, the falling water is like cascading silver silk threads. But don’t be fooled. To witness the fall's true might, stand on the viewing platform at its basin. 

Ryuzu translates to "dragon head waterfall." It was named after the shape of the twin waterfalls, which resembles the head of a dragon. The water flows from the Yugawa River and cascades down the 210-meter-long Ryuzu Falls before making its way to Lake Chuzenji.

Fall, or October, is said to be the perfect time to view Ryuzu Falls. The location makes it one of the first areas in Nikko to meet autumn. Flanked with trees, autumn turns its leaves into golden yellows and bright reds, giving the waterfall’s dragon-like appearance a fiery look.

A path from the small café and souvenir shop will lead to the observation deck at the base of the falls. This provides the best view of the cascading waters of Ryuzu Falls. This area also offers a popular 10-minute, 300-meter hiking trail that runs alongside the river.