F When in Japan: Bask under Shinjuku's technicolor cloud - jeepneyjinggoy

When in Japan: Bask under Shinjuku's technicolor cloud


Dark suits shed, Shinjuku donned its other gear. The ward’s animated persona emerged from the fiery business district when night fell, but the intensity was in no way diminished. In fact, it became more vibrant. The city was ablaze with color, the streets blanketed in multi-colored hues of the neon lights. Shinjuku was as exciting at night as it was by day.

The character shift was so evident, from the enterprising air of the attaché case-toting workforce to the high-spirited aura of the eclectic fashionistas. Picture a schizophrenic Japanese (no pun intended) with fragmented states alternately acting their roles on their twelve-hour shifts. The proverbial cliché “work hard, play harder” came to mind. Why not? They deserved it. A shot of sake or two after a day of toiling was not enough reward for what this highly industrialized society demanded of them.

 If sake is the national drink, the national pastime must be karaoke (not counting shopping). What can be a better stress reliever than venting out joy (or frustration) through a song? The high-pitched shrieks can pass off as loud, emotional, out-of-tune renditions. High scores, applause, canned or not, who cares? Kampai!

While the Japanese were belting it out in the inner sanctum of their preferred lounge, I carried on with my journey on foot. Where the bright lights (the colored ones, not white) were, I went, caring less that I strayed farther and farther from base. The stars will guide me back to my hotel, or the map in my back pocket.

I passed street signs with names tough to read, much less memorize, and lingered in the fancy, unusual, or exciting areas. The camera was working overtime, and as usual, I didn’t take down notes. No, I am not a genius nor gifted with a photographic memory; I just know better—everything is available on the net.

Before heading any further, the gut said it was time for my very first authentic Japanese ramen (how can I go wrong in this place?). Can’t read? “No probrem!” Thank God for picture menus.  The forefinger will do the ordering.

 It was the pork noodles for me, not after making a fool of myself emulating a chicken. None of the staff got the elbow fluttering and clucking I acted out. Don’t they play charades here? Perhaps I was the restaurant's comic relief for the evening, but at least I learned a thing or two in the ramen house. 1. Content yourself with what’s on the menu. ; 2. Don’t ask for anything beyond it unless you speak their language. ; and, 3. Nowhere in Japan will you find ramen with chicken. So who tweaked the recipe, the Chinese or the Pinoy?


 Sated and energized like Gigantor, I went back to my ward immersion.

Shinjuku lists a number of notable areas worth visiting. The Ichigaya in the east is the commercial area and home to the Ministry of Defense; squeezed in the small area of Golden Gai are hundreds of shanty-style bars and restos catering to artists in music, stage and cinema; one of Tokyo’s last remaining geisha district is the Kagurazaka; Nishi-Shinjuku is where Tokyo’s largest concentration of skyscrapers is; the Korean district is in Okubo; Yotsuya is an upscale residential and commercial district where Arakicho is, noted for its izakayas; and if you must know, the Kabukicho is the red-light district, and Shinjuku Ni-chome is Tokyo’s noted gay area.



Was I able to cover all these areas tonight? Maybe. I will know after checking the photos. Some areas needed no researching, though; the scenes were quite distinct. There was no denying that I was in the red-light district. In fact, I scoured the place.

 I was about to call it a night but Shinjuku urged me to stay. I said, YES!

However, the flesh was already weak and could no longer catch up with the zestful Shinjuku nightlife.  It was time to recharge at base. Whatever energy was left in me would be enough to take me home before I completely shut down.

Which way was home again? LOL.


Published in the Sun.Star Davao newspaper on June 16, 2011.


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