It’s been years since I’ve visited the Molo Church. I can't even recall how it looks. But on a recent trip to Iloilo, I had the chance to revisit one of the city’s famous churches.

First, about the district the church is situated in. In the past, Molo was a separate town, Iloilo’s “parian,” where all Chinese settlers must live. It was in 1937 when it became part of Iloilo City. 

St. Anne Parish Church, popularly known as the Molo Church, is said to be the only Gothic-Renaissance Church in Western Visayas

Situated beside the town plaza is the church, which is named after the place it’s in—Molo. Its official name though is the Church of St. Anne Parish. It was constructed in 1831 under the supervision of Fr. Pablo Montaño, but was completed by Fr. Agapito Buenaflor under Don Jose Manuel Locsin’s guidance.

Molo Church is said to be the only Gothic-Renaissance Church in Western Visayas and it is designed with symmetry—two pyramid-shaped spires in red house the belfry, which holds 36 bells in different sizes, flank the main entrance. What’s unique about the church’s construction is the material used to secure the white coral rocks and limestone— the mixture of egg whites and sand as bonding agent. Egg white was put to good use as only the yolks were used for the delicacies of the town’s baking industry.

Inside the church the aisle is flanked with 16 female saints stationed on each pillar leading to the main altar. Molo Church is the only church in the region primarily dedicated to the adoration of female saints, with St. Anne as the patron saint. This is the reason why Molo Church earned the nickname of “feminist church.” 

Sixteen female saints on the pillars leading to the main altar

Five wooden altars occupy the forward section—four on the either side of the transept and on the choir section is the gold-trimmed main altar holding the statues of St. Anne teaching the scripture to the child Mary. The top tier houses the figures of the Holy Trinity. Framing the main altar are two beautiful murals commissioned to two painters, Mariano Mabunay and Jesue Huervas. It depicts the Crucifixion and the Resurrection of Christ.

The main altar with gold accents hold the statue of the church's patron saint teaching the scripture to a young Mary

One of the altars on the transept

Altar holding the image of St. Joseph

An altar with the crucified Christ

Significant events mark the history of Molo Church. While on his way to Dapitan in Zamboanga de Sur on August 4, 1886, the National Hero Dr. Jose Rizal visited the church to view the biblical paintings; during World War II, the belfries were used as machine gun posts by the Japanese army; and, ironically, it also was used as an evacuation center for the civilians during the same war.

In 1992, Molo Church was declared a National Landmark.

The belfries were used as machine gun posts of the Japanes army in WWII

In the past, the privileged set can be buried inside the church

Also published on SunStar Davao newspaper.

Legend has it that a god helped the priest Shodo cross a raging river by creating a bridge with two serpents, thus allowing the priest and his followers to successfully fulfill their task— to scale Mount Nantai to pray for the nation’s prosperity in the end of the Nara Era.

Mt. Nantai & the Futurasan Shrine

Shodo Shonin, who introduced Buddhism to Nikko, is also the founder of Nikko Futurasan Shrine. It is a huge shrine covering 3,400 hectares and dedicated to the deities of the three sacred mountains- Mount Nantai, the most prominent, and Mount Nyoho and Mount Taro. The Japanese believes that holy existence resides in these mountains. Shrines were built in the area so the worshippers can be close to the gods when praying.

The tori gate of Futurusan Chugushi Shrine

Performance for tourists

Centuries old tree

The 784-built shrine of Chugushi (Intermediate Shrine) is one of three shrine buildings related to and called Futarasan Shrine in Nikko. Honsha and Okumiya are the other two. This shrine is located at the foot of Mount Nantai, along the picturesque shoreline of Chuzenji-ko. It stands between the Futurasan Jinja Shrine (Main Shrine) and the Okumiya (Inner Shrine).

The Futurusan Chugushi shrine is located at the base of Mt. Nantai, along the shoreline of Lake Chuzenji

Lake Chuizenji

Why was this shrine built? Since climbing Mount Nantai was difficult, Shodo Shonin built the Chugu-shi Shrine for the people who couldn’t scale the slope and worship at Okumiya, the shrine at the mountaintop. 

Futurusan Chugushi Shrine was built for the people who can't scale the mountaintop shrine of Okumiya

Maybe this it the yellow bell that answers prayers of those who seek a good match?

Or is it this bell?

How to get there: 

From the JR or Tobu Nikko Station, take the Tobu bus to the direction of Yumoto Onsen. Get off at the Futarasan Jinja Mae bus stop.

Also published in the SunStar Davao newspaper.

Its vermillion shade of the sacred bridge stands out against the hues of its surrounding—the blue of the sky above, the white of river’s tumbling waters rushing through the rocks below, and the green of the forest in between. It’s breathtaking. The scene is a picture of perfection: a structure made by man (or should I say, by a god) set in nature’s bosom—the Shinkyo Bridge in Nikko in the Tochigi Prefecture.

So beautiful that the lacquered arch is considered one of the finest bridges in Japan. There are only three on the list. The other two are the Kintai-kyo Bridge in Iwakani and the Saruhashi Bridge in Yamanashi Prefecture.

Shinkyo Bridge, the vermilion lacquered span is one of the three most beautiful bridges in Japan

Shinkyo Bridge spans over Daiya River, 27.8 meters in length, 7.4 meters wide, and 106 meters above the river. It officially belongs to the Futurasan Shrine, a Shinto Shrine, but it is also considered as the gateway to Nikko’s shrines and temples, including the Rinnoji Shrine and the Nikko Toshogu. 

Tori gate of the Futarasan Shrine via Shinkyo Bridge. Shinkyo Bridge, a sacred bridge, is the gate way to Futarasan Shrine in Nikko, Tochigi Prefecture

Legends make a subject more fascinating, and the legend of Shinkyo Bridge is as captivating as its beauty. 

In the year 766 (or 767 to some accounts), a priest named Shodo (the founder of Rinnoji) and his followers scaled Mt. Nantai to pray for national prosperity in the end of the Nara Period, but are unable to cross the rapid waters of Daiya River. The priest prayed and a god, Jinjai-Daiou (a Buddhist god), appeared. On the god’s arm are two snakes. He released it and the snakes entwined to form an arched pass while sedge (a grass-like plant with triangular stems) sprouted on its back. This is why the sacred bridge is also referred to as Yamasugeno-jabashi, or the “Snake Bridge of Sedge.”

A bridge across Daiya River

The origin of Shinkyo is a mystery. In feudal times, only the Emperor used the it, but in 1636, when the bridge was rebuilt, it was opened to Generals and messengers. It was only in 1973 when it was opened to the public in preparation for the 1982 event to celebrate the 1200^thanniversary of Mt. Nantai’s enshrinement.

Shinkyo Bridge is designated as a National Treasure.

How to get there.

Shinkyo Bridge is about 1.5 kilometers from Nikko Station. On foot, it takes about 25 minutes to reach. By route bus to Chuzenji or Yumoto-onsen, the Shinkyo stop is only 5 minutes away from Nikko station.

Also published in the SunStar Davao newspaper.